My 95 bronc is metallic green. The color of the top has faded to a girly teal. I want to paint it black. Do I need any sort of special paint? Does it need a flex agent in it, and should I prime it first?
Also, there is some wax from the previous owner that's on the edges, I'd like to see it gone before I spray a color down..any tricks to removing that stuff?
There's a bit of rust starting around the top of the rear quarter. In your guys' experience, would I be better having a shop grind it off, prime and paint, or buy new rear quarters? I'd hate to have it fixed just to see it resurface next year. The michigan winters really tear up a body...
Painting My Cap
Started by
Guest_FLYFSHIN_*
, Apr 07 2004 06:34 AM
5 replies to this topic
#2
Guest_hoggjaw_*
Guest_hoggjaw_*
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Posted 07 April 2004 - 04:36 PM
paintig the top is sumthin i heard aint an ez thing to do. lot a people said to leave it alone but i wood call a body shop. you should see my rear quarters, bondo dont rust! i bought the scab panels and welded em in and it looks great, but mud dont care bout that.
#3
Justshootme84
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F-Series Commander
- Location:Palacios, TX
- Interests:4wd trucks, hunting, fishing, music
Posted 07 April 2004 - 11:11 PM
I have seen some folks use regular rattle-can spray paint to "freshen-up" their hardtop. It only lasts about a year or two, though. Since it is fiberglass, the proper way is to gelcoat it, and the rough texture makes it difficult. If you have the money, have the top sanded smooth and then gelcoated.
When it comes to removing wax, an ammonia-based cleaner like Windex works the best.
As for the rear quarters and other body panels, if you catch the rust before it eats a hole thru the metal, it can be repaired with sanding and painting. Remember that bondo is no good for patching holes, since it won't hold to air. It will just crack and fall out within a few months.
When it comes to removing wax, an ammonia-based cleaner like Windex works the best.
As for the rear quarters and other body panels, if you catch the rust before it eats a hole thru the metal, it can be repaired with sanding and painting. Remember that bondo is no good for patching holes, since it won't hold to air. It will just crack and fall out within a few months.
1984 Bronco XLT, 351W H.O., C-6 AT, Ford 9", SkyJ 6" lift, 35" tires on MT Classic rims, S&W Racecars 10-pt cage kit, custom "shaker" assembly.
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435
#5
Justshootme84
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F-Series Commander
- Location:Palacios, TX
- Interests:4wd trucks, hunting, fishing, music
Posted 08 April 2004 - 12:33 PM
The regular rattle can spray paint looks fine, even shiny, if you take your time. It will peel, flake, fade, all of the above after a while, so you will have to do it again.
1984 Bronco XLT, 351W H.O., C-6 AT, Ford 9", SkyJ 6" lift, 35" tires on MT Classic rims, S&W Racecars 10-pt cage kit, custom "shaker" assembly.
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435
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