I just got my first bronco. It's an '88 with a 351W and the A/C is down. Can anyone tell me how to trouble shot the system? I'm stuck in Japan right now and all the locals can do is suck thier teeth and say gomen, (I'm in the Navy, that's why I'm in Jpan).
Serious Lack Of A/c
Started by
Guest_Cowpens_*
, Jun 21 2004 02:30 AM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Guest_Cowpens_*
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Posted 21 June 2004 - 02:30 AM
I just got my first bronco. It's an '88 with a 351W and the A/C is down. Can anyone tell me how to trouble shot the system? I'm stuck in Japan right now and all the locals can do is suck thier teeth and say gomen, (I'm in the Navy, that's why I'm in Jpan).
#2
Guest_BigNasty_*
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Posted 21 June 2004 - 04:56 AM
Japan???
That's one of the many places I never got to go when I was in the Nav..
(east coast based)
Does the AC come on at all, blowing slightly cool or just ambient air temperature air?
Or when turned on, do you hear screaching and burn up the belt?
When the switch is on, do you get nothing at all, not even the compressor pulley engaging?
If the compressor isn't engaging, then the power isnt getting to it to provide the energy for the clutch to engage or possibly a pressure switch isnt letting it come on. Check to be sure power (12-14 dc) is actually getting to the connector. If not, check all the fuses and wiring, including the switch to find out why not and to corect that.
If the compressor clutch is engaging yet the compressor will not turn and smokes the belt.. then the compressor is locked up and will need to be replaced.
If everything seems to work, and you are getting barely cool or possibly warm air, then the system needs to have any leaks fixed and recharged with refridgerant and the proper lubricant for the type of system you have (1988, I am thinking that's still an R12 system but then again, being in japan, may not be.. dunno..)
You can check the charge pressure with a set of gauges made just for AC systems just to be sure of the charge or lack of.
Most of the leaks I have encountered were from the O rings in connectors being dry and cracked, especially in the condensor fittings and in any inline pressure switches as their thread sealant became hard and allowed seapage.
I had one condensor that cracked, I assume from the wreck the vehicle was in before I purchased it.
That's about all I can think of without cracking the manual out but I will leave you with some safety tips, as it sounds like you are doing your own work.
Safety goggles or a face shield.. wear one.
Good leather gloves.
When working on an A/C system, ALWAYS assume it is fully charged and work safely with all the gear you need to prevent yourself from becoming a casualty.
That's one of the many places I never got to go when I was in the Nav..
(east coast based)
Does the AC come on at all, blowing slightly cool or just ambient air temperature air?
Or when turned on, do you hear screaching and burn up the belt?
When the switch is on, do you get nothing at all, not even the compressor pulley engaging?
If the compressor isn't engaging, then the power isnt getting to it to provide the energy for the clutch to engage or possibly a pressure switch isnt letting it come on. Check to be sure power (12-14 dc) is actually getting to the connector. If not, check all the fuses and wiring, including the switch to find out why not and to corect that.
If the compressor clutch is engaging yet the compressor will not turn and smokes the belt.. then the compressor is locked up and will need to be replaced.
If everything seems to work, and you are getting barely cool or possibly warm air, then the system needs to have any leaks fixed and recharged with refridgerant and the proper lubricant for the type of system you have (1988, I am thinking that's still an R12 system but then again, being in japan, may not be.. dunno..)
You can check the charge pressure with a set of gauges made just for AC systems just to be sure of the charge or lack of.
Most of the leaks I have encountered were from the O rings in connectors being dry and cracked, especially in the condensor fittings and in any inline pressure switches as their thread sealant became hard and allowed seapage.
I had one condensor that cracked, I assume from the wreck the vehicle was in before I purchased it.
That's about all I can think of without cracking the manual out but I will leave you with some safety tips, as it sounds like you are doing your own work.
Safety goggles or a face shield.. wear one.
Good leather gloves.
When working on an A/C system, ALWAYS assume it is fully charged and work safely with all the gear you need to prevent yourself from becoming a casualty.
#3
sweepersrgr8
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Posted 21 June 2004 - 07:45 AM
If your compressor clutch is not engaging at all, make a short jump wire with a male spade connector on each end, look on the passengers side engine compartment, and you will see a black tank that the A/C runs through, it will have the pressure switch on it, disconnect the lead, and jump it with the wire you just made. If the clutch comes on, you are low on refigerant, or have a bad switch. I'd go with being low. Don't leave the jumper in place long or you could burn up your compressor due to lack of oil.
The rest is like BigNasty said....find and repair all leaks before recharging. I would also be willing to bet that you are gonna to have to convert to R-134A in Japan.
The rest is like BigNasty said....find and repair all leaks before recharging. I would also be willing to bet that you are gonna to have to convert to R-134A in Japan.
1989 EB Bronco
351W HO EFI
3 Speed Auto
351W HO EFI
3 Speed Auto
#7
4xfan78
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Posted 22 June 2004 - 12:58 PM
A/C ????? What's that??
If the compressor will not come on try jumping the low pressure switch if it comes on then , then you're freon is low. If this does'nt work you might be better off doing without or taking it to a shop.
If the compressor will not come on try jumping the low pressure switch if it comes on then , then you're freon is low. If this does'nt work you might be better off doing without or taking it to a shop.
GOT MUD?
#8
sweepersrgr8
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Posted 22 June 2004 - 04:52 PM
A/C work is not as complicated as it seems, and the high prices you guys pay at repair shops is a government conspiricy. Just like now, it is in the Legislature to prevent nonauthorized sevice personell(shops), from knowing the codes to your computer controlled vehicle. If this Bill is passed, only a Dealer will be able to work on your vehicle. This is what they want, so that everyone will give up, and stop repairing our equipment , and buy new ones. Power and Industry runs this country, we must stick together, and prevent them from putting the little guy out.
Cowpens, spend the $75 or so bucks to repair your system, and convert to R134a. You don't have to do away with you A/C. I get out every day, and sweat my ass off with the best of 'em, but when the day is over....my A/C is cranked.
Cowpens, spend the $75 or so bucks to repair your system, and convert to R134a. You don't have to do away with you A/C. I get out every day, and sweat my ass off with the best of 'em, but when the day is over....my A/C is cranked.
1989 EB Bronco
351W HO EFI
3 Speed Auto
351W HO EFI
3 Speed Auto
#9
Guest_Guest_Cowpens_*
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Posted 23 June 2004 - 06:08 PM
Thanks for all the help everyone. It's not quite 107 degrees here but it is pushing 90 with high humidity and A/C is a must. I've got a couple buddies that will be helping me this weekend, one of them is a certified Mercedes mech, so I'm sure we'll figure it out.
And remember "the rich control the government, the media the law".
And remember "the rich control the government, the media the law".
#10
viper
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Posted 07 July 2004 - 05:11 PM
Dude, being a lardassed beer drinking truck driver I can feel your pain.First, with the cost of R-12 think R134 the conversion kit from k- mart or any parts store is cheap,If the system is empty throw a couple oz of ester oil in and 2 or 3 cans of R134 let it rinse the system for a few days,dump it change the dryer & refill.
Its worked for me for for years in my eldo , dodge diesel, K.W, and most recently in my 82 bronco. You might try power straight to the compressor to get it to suck the juice in. If its pre 93 its likely R12 stay cool!
Its worked for me for for years in my eldo , dodge diesel, K.W, and most recently in my 82 bronco. You might try power straight to the compressor to get it to suck the juice in. If its pre 93 its likely R12 stay cool!
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