hey all,
brand new to the ford world, bought a 79 f-150. real good body, needs TLC.
anyways, it has a very serious rake from the front to the rear. it has a 3" body lift, and a considerable amount of suspension lift. the truck is riding on 17/40-15 tires, and has no clearance issues between the tires and body. the rear blocks appear to be 2" or 3" tall. could the rear springs be de-arching? or has someone put a smaller than supposed to be block in it.
problem being, it looks droopy(!) how can i tell how big the lift is in the front so that i can level it out?
any help would be much appreciated.
thanks to all
bd

Mis-matched Suspension Lift?
Started by
bgdaddy599
, Jul 02 2004 05:54 AM
9 replies to this topic
#2
Posted 02 July 2004 - 07:33 AM
The first thing to do is have those 40" tires ballanced. My 38's toss weights all the time and make the Bronco shakes like a bitch. Otherwise check your ball joints by jacking it up and pull on the bottom tire and on top and have someone look. Large tires eat them up. Check steering joints and trac bar bushings for slop. Then, with tires on the ground have your buddy turn the steering wheel back and forth so you can look at the tie-rods and bushings moving around. If those don't fix it check the driveline U-joints as they fail all the time with large tires and big lifts.
As for your lift being lower in the rear, some aftermarket kits are designed like this such as FabTech (pre-runner suspensions). Some keep it lower in the rear to save the u-joints (less driveline angle). If you want to level it just get another block thats 1" taller under the leafs. I wouldn't recomment going any higher than 4" with a block.
As for your lift being lower in the rear, some aftermarket kits are designed like this such as FabTech (pre-runner suspensions). Some keep it lower in the rear to save the u-joints (less driveline angle). If you want to level it just get another block thats 1" taller under the leafs. I wouldn't recomment going any higher than 4" with a block.
Wheel it like you stole it!
#3
Posted 02 July 2004 - 10:41 AM
I'd go with a add-a-leaf over the block. Rear blocks lead to axle wrap and blows U-joints quick.
By what you stated I'd say you have a 4" lift plus the 3" body lift. These older trucks tend to clear larger tires on smaller lifts. They can clear 38's fairly easy with just a 4" lift.
instead of re-arching the rear sprungs it's about as cheap to have a custom spring pack built. plus you'll know the new springs aren't weak to add to axle wrap. Try a search there is quite a few places that'll build custom springs cheap. I can't think of the name right off, but if i remember it i'll post the link to a site for it.
By what you stated I'd say you have a 4" lift plus the 3" body lift. These older trucks tend to clear larger tires on smaller lifts. They can clear 38's fairly easy with just a 4" lift.
instead of re-arching the rear sprungs it's about as cheap to have a custom spring pack built. plus you'll know the new springs aren't weak to add to axle wrap. Try a search there is quite a few places that'll build custom springs cheap. I can't think of the name right off, but if i remember it i'll post the link to a site for it.
#5
Posted 06 July 2004 - 01:07 PM
Yes they have shims to correct the pinion angle. Factory and most aftermarket blocks are cut at an angle to correct the pinion angles.
#8
Guest_BLUEovalBELIEVER_*
Posted 24 July 2004 - 10:42 PM
what about ball joints,wheel bearings?how can you put a traction bar on leafs not lose articulation and not buy floaters for the springs?
40 inch tires are too big for half ton trucks,i really don't care to argue run them and you will see in time,and just in case you forget when you are broke down on the side of the road with a busted ball joint"i told you so"
spend the money and up grade.
40 inch tires are too big for half ton trucks,i really don't care to argue run them and you will see in time,and just in case you forget when you are broke down on the side of the road with a busted ball joint"i told you so"
spend the money and up grade.
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