I am having a problem with the electrical system on my 85 Bronce 300 CID 6. The turn signals sometimes flash at what seems like a normal speed, sometimes much faster. No bulbs are out. Another problem is the electric rear window will roll up and down fastest when the engine is off. With the engine running, and especially with the AC running the window moves very slowly. Battery is new. Alt is putting out 14 volts. Any ideas where to look?
Apparent Electical Problem
Started by
Guest_Desert Donk_*
, Jul 02 2004 05:46 PM
13 replies to this topic
#2
Seabronc
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Posted 02 July 2004 - 06:32 PM
Is this also true with the tailgate window if you raise and lower it with the key switch on the tailgate?
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#3
walkdawg
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Posted 02 July 2004 - 06:40 PM
Sounds to me like you have a loose connection between the battery and the fuse box.It might move around when the motor is shacking it but I am not sure. sorry 
89 Bronco 302 5.0L FI 33x12.5x15 tire. AOD, 3.55 gears slowly upgarding and restoring.
#4
Seabronc
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Posted 02 July 2004 - 07:13 PM
There are two paths that supply power to the tailgate window. One is hot at all times and supplies powser when the key switch is used. The other is hot when the ignition switch is in Run or Accessory. Both come thru the fuse block but from slightly different paths. That is why I am saying that you need to try the key switch while the truck is running and not. If the result is the same as you describe from the driver tailgate switch, it narrows the possible problem area.
Good luck,
Good luck,
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#5
Guest_Desert Donk_*
Guest_Desert Donk_*
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Posted 02 July 2004 - 09:16 PM
Thanks, I'll check that. I replaced the battery cables, and bought ran a new 10 gauge wire to the frame for grounding. The original cable had a ground point about half way down but the new cable did not so I added one. Hope 10 guage is enough. And I also bought some fittings to attach a line that goes from the negative cable to some accessory that was built into the original but missing on the NAPA replacement.There are two paths that supply power to the tailgate window. One is hot at all times and supplies powser when the key switch is used. The other is hot when the ignition switch is in Run or Accessory. Both come thru the fuse block but from slightly different paths. That is why I am saying that you need to try the key switch while the truck is running and not. If the result is the same as you describe from the driver tailgate switch, it narrows the possible problem area.
Good luck,
#6
Seabronc
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Posted 03 July 2004 - 04:29 AM
You seem to be close to the problem. An electrical system with gagues has a couple of things to check in the 12v power distribution:
1. would be the fuseable link that is on the starter solinoid. It connects to a black with orange stripe wire. From there it connects to two different points which make up the shunt system for the Ammeter then to a yellow wire to connector C610 (located bel;ow the voltage regulator) . From that point it connects to two fusable links which feed the hot all the time functions and the other feeds the stuff that is only hot in Run or Accessory. Fusable links are kind of freaky when they start to fail but not high on the list here of possible failing components. The connnector should be taken apart and cleaned add some dialectric grease after cleaning to make it easier to get apart and make a good weather seal.
2. The voltage regulator might be a possible culpret. It is not involved except when the truck is running.
3. The connection from the battery to the start solinoid.
4. The ground cable connections from the battery to the engine block. Check and clean the connection at both ends. I think you said you replaced this cable.
5. The ground strap from the rear of the intake manifold to the firewall. I have actually replaced the original screw attachment on mine witha grounding bolt (available from an electrical supplier).
6. The main grounding connections for the instruments, tail gate window, etc.
(G701, G801, G802)
G701 is located behind the instrument panel near the right hand side of the radio.
G801 is located on the Left hand inner fender behing the headlights.
G802 is located on the right hand inner fender behind the headlights.
I'm going to try to scan in two diagrams, oneshowing the ground connections, one showing charge and power distribution and attach them in my next post.
Good luck,
1. would be the fuseable link that is on the starter solinoid. It connects to a black with orange stripe wire. From there it connects to two different points which make up the shunt system for the Ammeter then to a yellow wire to connector C610 (located bel;ow the voltage regulator) . From that point it connects to two fusable links which feed the hot all the time functions and the other feeds the stuff that is only hot in Run or Accessory. Fusable links are kind of freaky when they start to fail but not high on the list here of possible failing components. The connnector should be taken apart and cleaned add some dialectric grease after cleaning to make it easier to get apart and make a good weather seal.
2. The voltage regulator might be a possible culpret. It is not involved except when the truck is running.
3. The connection from the battery to the start solinoid.
4. The ground cable connections from the battery to the engine block. Check and clean the connection at both ends. I think you said you replaced this cable.
5. The ground strap from the rear of the intake manifold to the firewall. I have actually replaced the original screw attachment on mine witha grounding bolt (available from an electrical supplier).
6. The main grounding connections for the instruments, tail gate window, etc.
(G701, G801, G802)
G701 is located behind the instrument panel near the right hand side of the radio.
G801 is located on the Left hand inner fender behing the headlights.
G802 is located on the right hand inner fender behind the headlights.
I'm going to try to scan in two diagrams, oneshowing the ground connections, one showing charge and power distribution and attach them in my next post.
Good luck,
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#12
Seabronc
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Posted 05 July 2004 - 03:09 PM
Location of ground from engine to firewall. Note the bolt. I replaced the original screw with a grounding bolt to make a better contack and because the screw threads wer not grabbing too well any more. The black #8 wire lead goes to a bolt on the intake manafold but not one that is used to hold the manafold on.
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#14
Guest_Desert Donk_*
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Posted 06 July 2004 - 02:50 AM
This is the ground from the block to the firewall. But rather than have it alone on the firewall they attached it to where the wiper motor attaches to the firewall. This is a bit of a mess as I had a leak for some time but I did take them off and clean them up, though I have not cleaned the surrounding area yet the bolt and both connectors as well as the block underneath them are clean.
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