I purchased some Superlift lift blocks to raise the rear of my 1982 Bronco 2�. The installation instructions that came with the Superlift block does not say anything about the factory wedge used on the stock Bronco�s suspension system. Do the Superlift blocks install between the stock factory wedge and the leaf spring, or do you discard the factory wedge? How will this effect the differential pinion angle?
Lift Blocks (rear), To Wedge, Or Not To Wedge?
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, Jul 23 2004 06:08 AM
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#3
Guest_DanaDRD_*
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Posted 23 July 2004 - 07:14 AM
Thanks for your reply. . . .
The Superlift blocks are made of cast-iron, and yes they are angled. The footprint of the Superlift block is much larger than the welded perch on the differential axle tube. The footprint of the Superlift block fits nicely on top of the factory wedge. If I discard the wedge I will need to weld a plate on the differential perch to properly support the Superlift block. Which brings me back to the original post-----To Wedge or Not to Wedge, and pinion angle?
The Superlift blocks are made of cast-iron, and yes they are angled. The footprint of the Superlift block is much larger than the welded perch on the differential axle tube. The footprint of the Superlift block fits nicely on top of the factory wedge. If I discard the wedge I will need to weld a plate on the differential perch to properly support the Superlift block. Which brings me back to the original post-----To Wedge or Not to Wedge, and pinion angle?
#4
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Posted 23 July 2004 - 07:20 AM
I'd say if its easier to use the wedge and it doesn't create too much angle on the pinion, then use it. The wedge isn't tall enough to add more lift so you should be OK. Keep those u-bolts tight. After a few days check them again and make sure they are tight. After that they should be good to go. Your instinct will tell you what to do.
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#5
4xfan78
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Posted 23 July 2004 - 07:32 AM
If the superlift blocks are angled then I would not use the wedge's. Using the wedges will only cause you problems, thats why the blocks you have have an angle on them.
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#6
Guest_Kennel_Dog_*
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Posted 25 July 2004 - 07:02 AM
Ummm....I`m starting to hate modifications 
When I bought my 4" lift it came with 3" blocks for the rear. They are cast iron and angled also. The instructions never mentioned the factory wedge so I put them on top of the originals and carried on.
So, if I understand correctly you guys are saying this is a bad thing to do. My problem is if I take out the originals the front will be way higher than the back.
Is it possible to weld both of them together or would you guys recommend bying new, bigger blocks ? or is the another solution ?.
BTW the differential pinion angle looks good to me, but remember I`m only a duck taper
When I bought my 4" lift it came with 3" blocks for the rear. They are cast iron and angled also. The instructions never mentioned the factory wedge so I put them on top of the originals and carried on.
So, if I understand correctly you guys are saying this is a bad thing to do. My problem is if I take out the originals the front will be way higher than the back.
Is it possible to weld both of them together or would you guys recommend bying new, bigger blocks ? or is the another solution ?.
BTW the differential pinion angle looks good to me, but remember I`m only a duck taper
#7
Justshootme84
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Posted 26 July 2004 - 09:03 PM
I've always kept the wedges, and installed the blocks between them and the leaf springs. The only reason you should not use the wedges is if the driveshaft-pinion angle is not zero or very close to "0". A thin shim may even be needed, between the block and wedge. You can have a 4wd shop check the anlge for you, even if it looks O.K. I had to use a 1" block under my lifted spring packs to level the ride height and correct the ds angle. Otherwise, you will go thru ujoints every month or two.
1984 Bronco XLT, 351W H.O., C-6 AT, Ford 9", SkyJ 6" lift, 35" tires on MT Classic rims, S&W Racecars 10-pt cage kit, custom "shaker" assembly.
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435
#8
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Posted 27 July 2004 - 07:11 AM
The only problem with putting more than one thing between the axle and the spring is it has a very good chance of moving even if it's torqued properly. Which will snap the u-bolts holding the rearend in place. Mine did exactly that I hade 3" blocks with weadges. I fixed the problem by buying 4" aluminium block and cutting the correct angle in them myself. Been working great and have not broke a u-joint in almost 2 years.
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#10
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Posted 27 July 2004 - 02:54 PM
Wow, I guess it can happen. My 96 F350 comes stock with a dual block under the leafs. One is a wedge and the other is for height. We better drop Ford an e-mail hu?
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#14
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Posted 28 July 2004 - 07:47 AM
Thats right! It helps the u-joint if its all in line. When its at a stock angle the driveline will bind with a lift and wear the u-joint out fast. You don't want to drop a driveline on the freeway. I've heard some nasty stories... 
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#15
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Posted 28 July 2004 - 07:59 AM
Forgot to say you can also cut the leaf spring mounting pads off the axle rotate the axle upwards to the desired angle and tac it in place. Then take everything off and weld it in good. Then you can get the correct leaf spring lift and have no blocks. 
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#16
stinger
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Posted 31 July 2004 - 06:53 PM
more than likely you should put the factory wedge back in. I put on a BDS 4" rear kit (blocks and add a leafs) there instructions said to put there block on top of the factory wedge to keep the proper pinion angle. also there 4" kit raised the back end 6 1/2" . so i ended up changing front springs out and for there 6" springs and getting ready to put the 6" rear springs on and get rid of the block. Just my opinion wasn't to sure about the stacking blocks up on the rear end and extra long u-bolts that seem to always need to be retightened.
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