22 replies to this topic

[bluesman17]

forgot to log in sorry about that

[Justshootme84]

Most shops will charge $450-$500 to install it, and it's worth every penny IMHO. It is not as complicated as an engine or tranny overhaul, but it will take a weekend to do for a "first-timer". The rear axle is very simple, just add blocks under the leaf springs or replace with lifted packs, add longer shocks, and check the pinion angle for the driveshaft. Most blocks are tapered to keep the ds angle near "0" degrees to keep from eating ujoints.
The front axle is the fun part, seems like every bolt has Loctite on it from the factory. You will need a Pitman arm puller, and may even need to heat the stock arm to remove it. You will be installing a "dropped" Pitman arm for the steering, longer coil springs and shocks, axle pivot dropdown brackets, and either drop down brackets for the stock radius arms or extended arms which require re-locating the bracket mounts further back. Removing the stock bolts may be easier if you soak them with PB or penetrating oil for a couple of days, and air tools or a long cheater bar will help. The hard part will be lining up the brackets and their bolts, as everything has now moved from before. Use at least two floor jacks, jack stands for SAFETY, and a come-along if you have one. This is the best time to replace the factory suspension bushings with new ones or polyurethane bushings. Then go straight to get an alignment done on the front end, as the camber, caster, and toe-in will be way off.
It took a shop 3 days to install the lift on my 84 Bronco, due to stubborn, rusted bolts. I knew it would be rough, as I have lifted a few TTB trucks in the past. It will not be as bad on your 95, but the front axle weighs about 500 lbs. Get a couple of strong buddies to help you if you decide to tackle it.

[Justshootme84]

The front axle has the following bushings:
1. radius arms. the end that bolts to the frame bracket has one on each side of the bracket.
2. axle pivot points. the end of the axle half or i-beam has a pressed-in bushing/sleeve assembly. You will need a special tool or "equivalent" to remove these, and the same tool to install the new ones.
3.optional would be tie rod end boots and rear spring eye bushings. All of mine were dry-rotted and worn out. In your case, I would at least replace the front suspension units, items 1 & 2.

I suggest the poly ones if you plan to keep the rig for a few years, as they will last longer than the rubber ones. They will firm up the ride, but still flex with the suspension. I bought a complete set including body mount bushings made by Daystar for $200 from Rocky Mountain Suspension, www.rockymountainsusp.com The radius arm bushings are $20 and the APB's are $25 for a set.

[Justshootme84]

"Then go straight to get an alignment done on the front end, as the camber, caster and toe-in will be way off". Someone posted that already.

Remember that you saved $500 on labor, that should buy a few aspirin for the pain and bandaids for the fingers. CHeck all of the bolts you worked on after a few hundred miles and then every few months. They tend to work loose until everything settles in.

[Shadow_D]

It might be the shop you went to. I am finding most shops around here can't do an alignment on a lifted (or lowered for that mater) vehicle because they are not set up for it. I only found one place locally and they want anywhere from $50 - $150 to do it.
You need to be sure the shop can handle a lifted truck before you bring it to them.

[Shadow_D]

Well I guess if I was in your area I would never go there. Even if my truck was not safe to drive I'd find another shop somewhere else.

[Justshootme84]

If your canber is set , the caster can still be so far off that the steering wheel is not centered or won't return to center. Any "competent' alignment man will know this, so I would raise H.E. double L with the shop or the foreman. In my case, with the 6" lift and the stock radius arms and drop brackets, it would be impossible to get the correct caster, and my alignment guy told me so. With the extended arms, all he needed to do was change to the correct camber bushings. The Bronco drives straighter than stock now with 35's. Point is, it can be done, the dude just needs to know his stuff for lifted TTB axles.

[Justshootme84]

I think there is a quick-disconnect for the front for Broncos (expensive, though), check one of the 4WD magazine sites, like 4Wheel&OFFfroad. The rear one will also be in a bind, with no extension kit that i know of for lifted trucks. I simply removed both the front and rear sway bars from my Bronco after the lift, with little or no noticeable effect on the ride or handling.