I will be replacing my front wheel bearings on my 1993 Eddie B. next week when I swap out my auto hubs for the Warn Premiums. I have two questions......
1. When installing the new bearings I will also want to replace the seals. I want to know how many seals are on each side? I think its only one, but I am not 100% sure.
2. After replacing the bearings and seals, I have to seat the bearings by torquing down the inner lock nut.....and then the outer one. Can someone give me a quick outline on this procedure with the torque specifications?
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!
Replacing Wheel Bearings?
Started by
Guest_Streetgang44_*
, Sep 15 2004 07:39 PM
8 replies to this topic
#2
Guest_tagto138_*
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Posted 16 September 2004 - 06:06 AM
first thing i would do is also check you're brakes and rotor. if you are going to change bearings and hubs and tear it apart it would be better to do it once instead of 90 times. i'm at about 80.
1. there is one seal on each side.this does not includ the orings that will come with the new hubs.
2.replace the races at the same time. i recomend sticking them in the freezer for a half an hour. eases installation greatly(aircraft trick)
3.when you put it back togetherthe inner lock nut is torqued to 50 f/lbs while turning hub assy back and forth. rotate lock nut backwards 45 deg. install outer locknut. torque outer locknut to 150f/lbs.
like i said i would look at brakes and roors too. last year i just did my brakes. then i replaced my bearings latter. then the company i had put on my lift kit screwed up the torques on my bearings(the reason i need to replace again after one year) so i have had my front end tore apart more than i care too.
hope this helps. look at a haynes manual too.
1. there is one seal on each side.this does not includ the orings that will come with the new hubs.
2.replace the races at the same time. i recomend sticking them in the freezer for a half an hour. eases installation greatly(aircraft trick)
3.when you put it back togetherthe inner lock nut is torqued to 50 f/lbs while turning hub assy back and forth. rotate lock nut backwards 45 deg. install outer locknut. torque outer locknut to 150f/lbs.
like i said i would look at brakes and roors too. last year i just did my brakes. then i replaced my bearings latter. then the company i had put on my lift kit screwed up the torques on my bearings(the reason i need to replace again after one year) so i have had my front end tore apart more than i care too.
hope this helps. look at a haynes manual too.
#3
Guest_Streetgang44_*
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Posted 16 September 2004 - 06:41 AM
Yea thanks......I already have the new rotor/hub assembly's. That was also getting done, along with the hoses front and rear, rear drums, shoes, and ALL hardware w/backing plate in the rear. I think I will also change the spindle bearing on each side and the u-joints up front if needed.
So you are saying that there is only ONE seal on each hub, so I need two new ones total to complete the job......right?
I do have a question......what o-ring? Are you talking about the one that goes just under the outside cover? I am not too sure but I dont think Warn Premiums come with that.....or if its even used after a auto to manual hub conversion.
As far as the races.....well I would never just change the bearings and not races.....oh and if you really have a hard time seating races.....you can not only put them in the freezer, but you can heat up (NO....I didnt say cook the dam thing)
the hub....or whatever part with a torch....(old motorcycle tech trick)
So you are saying that there is only ONE seal on each hub, so I need two new ones total to complete the job......right?
I do have a question......what o-ring? Are you talking about the one that goes just under the outside cover? I am not too sure but I dont think Warn Premiums come with that.....or if its even used after a auto to manual hub conversion.
As far as the races.....well I would never just change the bearings and not races.....oh and if you really have a hard time seating races.....you can not only put them in the freezer, but you can heat up (NO....I didnt say cook the dam thing)
the hub....or whatever part with a torch....(old motorcycle tech trick)
#4
Seabronc
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Posted 16 September 2004 - 07:34 AM
Not to sound like a wise guy, but I suggest that you get a Haynes and/or Chiltons, better yet if you can get ahold of one, a Ford shop manual volume A. The Chiltons and Haynes are a readers digest version of the complete set of shop manuals. You can often find the shop manuals advertised on ebay and are well worth the expense.
The number of seals depends on how far you are going back. Since you are tearing it apart and doing wheel bearings, why not continue back and do the axle shaft stuff line seals bearings and U-joints. At least check their condition, the drive stuff has been known to freeze up.
For my truck, the bearing adjustment is;
Inner adjusting nut - 50 ft lb
Back off 45 deg
lockwasher in position move nut to nerest hole in lockwasher
outer locknut to 150 ft lb
There is one seal if only going back to the rear of the hub
The proper proceedure is important to follow and pretty long to retype in a post.
Good luck,
The number of seals depends on how far you are going back. Since you are tearing it apart and doing wheel bearings, why not continue back and do the axle shaft stuff line seals bearings and U-joints. At least check their condition, the drive stuff has been known to freeze up.
For my truck, the bearing adjustment is;
Inner adjusting nut - 50 ft lb
Back off 45 deg
lockwasher in position move nut to nerest hole in lockwasher
outer locknut to 150 ft lb
There is one seal if only going back to the rear of the hub
The proper proceedure is important to follow and pretty long to retype in a post.
Good luck,
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#5
Guest_Streetgang44_*
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Posted 16 September 2004 - 07:44 AM
I will look in a bit deeper than the rotor/hub, but the truck has only 73K on it and no wheeling at all. I am changing the rotor and hub, so I figured I will do the bearings also, but chances are that they are still good, but are getting changed any way. If I have to I will do the spindle bearings & seals and u-joints if needed.......
"Inner adjusting nut - 50 ft lb
Back off 45 deg
lockwasher in position move nut to nerest hole in lockwasher
outer locknut to 150 ft lb
There is one seal if only going back to the rear of the hub"
Thats about what I wanted the hear........I have done this already on a F250 w/D50, and I have the POS Haynes manual (I guess it is a little help though).
Thanks bro!
"Inner adjusting nut - 50 ft lb
Back off 45 deg
lockwasher in position move nut to nerest hole in lockwasher
outer locknut to 150 ft lb
There is one seal if only going back to the rear of the hub"
Thats about what I wanted the hear........I have done this already on a F250 w/D50, and I have the POS Haynes manual (I guess it is a little help though).
Thanks bro!
#6
Broncoholics
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Posted 16 September 2004 - 07:49 AM
Some parts houses have seals in the box with the spindle bearing but most manufacturers do not include them. Its nice to have this seal if you see deep water, otherwise you don't need it.
You can always feel for the torque in the bearings. Tighten the first nut down snug while turning the rotor back and forth, loosen it slightly as you turn the rotor. You will get a feel for where it needs to be. Grab the hub area and see if you can shake or wobble it, if it moves slightly the bearing is a bit loose. Go to the next hole in the locking ring. See how this feels, if its good crank down the outer nut and maybe even put a pipe on the end of your toruqe wrench so you know it tight.
You don't want that nut to come off...
You can always feel for the torque in the bearings. Tighten the first nut down snug while turning the rotor back and forth, loosen it slightly as you turn the rotor. You will get a feel for where it needs to be. Grab the hub area and see if you can shake or wobble it, if it moves slightly the bearing is a bit loose. Go to the next hole in the locking ring. See how this feels, if its good crank down the outer nut and maybe even put a pipe on the end of your toruqe wrench so you know it tight.
You don't want that nut to come off...
Wheel it like you stole it!
#8
Guest_tagto138_*
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Posted 17 September 2004 - 09:34 AM
warn premiums do come with an oring(seal, gasket etc..)they go inbetween the outer locking hub and the actual bearing hub. mine came with the kit. if they don't and you ever go four wheeling, or run into that good jersey flooding(family still in flemington) you run a good chance of premature failure due to water intrusion.
I also know about using heat also but prefer an oven(don't tell the wife) it heats component up more consistently. and if keep under 250-300 for steel will not affect the original heat treatments applied by the manufacturer. aluminum i would keep less than that because at about 300+- degrees you will start annealing(removing heat treatment) the material and making it basicaly worthless.
good luck with the work at least you will only do it once.
I also know about using heat also but prefer an oven(don't tell the wife) it heats component up more consistently. and if keep under 250-300 for steel will not affect the original heat treatments applied by the manufacturer. aluminum i would keep less than that because at about 300+- degrees you will start annealing(removing heat treatment) the material and making it basicaly worthless.
good luck with the work at least you will only do it once.
#9
Guest_tagto138_*
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Posted 17 September 2004 - 09:41 AM
Also this is an fyi for anybody. due not use any form of extension on a torque wrench unless you have the right formulas too figure out you desired torque. i believe this is what the company who put my lift on did and caused premature replacement of bearing.
by adding extensions you can greatly increase torque values on the component, but that calibrated elbow we all have will feel like it's not enough.
if any one wants the formulas let me know but there a pain in the ass to work with.
just my two cents
by adding extensions you can greatly increase torque values on the component, but that calibrated elbow we all have will feel like it's not enough.
if any one wants the formulas let me know but there a pain in the ass to work with.
just my two cents
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