i was just wondering how my auto hubs engage and dis engage automatically? they work good but is there some sort of vacuum or electronic connection or do they just engage mechanically when the front drivetrain is engaged? thanks
Auto Hubs
Started by
hawk2100n
, Sep 21 2004 05:45 PM
14 replies to this topic
#2
Seabronc
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Posted 21 September 2004 - 06:56 PM
they engage mechanically when the drive train is engaged. That is why you are supposed to drive atleast 10 ft in reverse to disengage them.
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#3
Seabronc
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Posted 21 September 2004 - 07:17 PM
They engage mechanically when the front drive train is engaged. That is why you are supposed to drive atleast 10 ft in reverse to disengage them after going back to 2WD.
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#5
hawk2100n
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Posted 22 September 2004 - 10:56 AM
thanks, i knew how to disengage them. i can understand why people go with locking hubs because the auto hubs can engage a little late and make a nasty jerk. im shure this can cause them to break, but as it is, i like not getting out of my truck to go 4 wheelin.
#7
Broncoscare
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Posted 23 September 2004 - 08:00 AM
What kind of costs are you looking at when converting to locking hubs from push button? I want to change mine but I am not to sure about how much its gonna set me back.
#8
Guest_Windchaser_*
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Posted 23 September 2004 - 09:30 AM
I'll third that and LMAO @ Blade.
Oh, and not sure how much that would run you as I am wondering the same thing...I want to go to manuels also, but I think that you can keep the push button with manuels...or I could be wrong and just sounded like a total fool...
Oh, and not sure how much that would run you as I am wondering the same thing...I want to go to manuels also, but I think that you can keep the push button with manuels...or I could be wrong and just sounded like a total fool...
#9
Iamnottelling
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Posted 23 September 2004 - 10:09 AM
You can run manual hubs with the push button. The push button just electronically moves the same type linkage that would be in a shift on the floor 4-wheel drive. I run the manual hubs and the pushbutton. The Ward Premium hubs cost me like $85 from murrays auto (don't have to pay shipping just tax and they are pretty quick about getting them).
#11
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Posted 23 September 2004 - 12:56 PM
I just replaced my autos with manuals on my 95. I spent $130 at 4 Wheel Parts Warehouse. It took about an hour and a half with the first hour going only on the first side after that the second one was cake. Cost was up because I had to buy the conversion kit.
#12
BLADE262US
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Posted 23 September 2004 - 01:39 PM
You can use manual hubs with push button Tcase but you really should change the spindle nuts . I have checked on that so called conversion kit for doing this and all it is is the 2 axle nuts and the washer and around here because its called a conversion kit they want $50 for it . NO WAY , You can use the axle nuts off about any dana 44 that you have lying around and it will be wayyyyyy cheaper . The reason for changing the nuts is the way the keeper works . I did this on my 95 F150 . The autohub actually holds a little metal pin in place and if you just put manuals on it there is room for the pin to come out causeing the nuts to back off and potentially loose the whole wheel . If your looking for the nuts even that nasty C word stuff will fit it . 
#13
Guest_Streetgang44_*
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Posted 23 September 2004 - 03:28 PM
The washer with the pin fits into another locking ring with holes in it....THEN another nut goes over that. This last nut is the one that should be torqued to about 150 ft/lbs.....there is NO WAY your wheel will come off if you do the job correctly. The only time you need the conversion kit is if your outer hub cover...you know the one that has the 4X4 logo on it has 3 torx fastners.....if you have the hub covers with the 5 torx fasteners then you DO NOT need the conversion kit.
Also the manual locking hubs are much stronger, but a bit less convenient than the autos. What I do is this.....if I even think I will be using the 4WD I will keep the hubs in the locked position, and just engage and disengage the T-case via the dash switch as needed. You WILL NOT do any damage driving around with the hubs locked while in 2WD....even on dry or hard surface.....you will get about 2MPG less.
Oh....and the dash switch works just fine with the manual hubs.
Switching to real locking manual hubs like Warn Premiums or Mile Markers is one of the best moves you can make if you use your Bronco in 4WD at all.
Also.....you do need to drive about a mile or so every month in 4WD just to keep everything lubed up in the hubs.....this goes for auto or manual.
Also the manual locking hubs are much stronger, but a bit less convenient than the autos. What I do is this.....if I even think I will be using the 4WD I will keep the hubs in the locked position, and just engage and disengage the T-case via the dash switch as needed. You WILL NOT do any damage driving around with the hubs locked while in 2WD....even on dry or hard surface.....you will get about 2MPG less.
Oh....and the dash switch works just fine with the manual hubs.
Switching to real locking manual hubs like Warn Premiums or Mile Markers is one of the best moves you can make if you use your Bronco in 4WD at all.
Also.....you do need to drive about a mile or so every month in 4WD just to keep everything lubed up in the hubs.....this goes for auto or manual.
#14
Ktomek06
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Posted 24 September 2004 - 04:39 AM
I like my auto's never have given me a problem...but as soon as they go out i will get manuals they are cheaper and dont let water in as easy..so they say..but i really like the convinience of not having to get out
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