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The Simple Things

Started by Guest_Windchaser_* , Oct 08 2004 07:05 AM

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#1 Guest_Windchaser_*

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Posted 08 October 2004 - 07:05 AM

Okay, so I go to change the driver's side exhaust manifold gasket that my exhaust guy said was not blown. The same exhaust guy that only put in six of eight bolts into the manifold :mad:

(dumba$$). I have been hitting the bolts with PB Blaster for two weeks now to loosen them up a bit...good thing because I only busted three of the bolts off in the head (that was sarcasm there guys). SO, my couple of hour project, now is a couple of weeks worth of my wife asking what in the hell am I doing now project...also filled with friends saying, "Dude, just sell it." [-(

So now, because the 460 in the hood compartment is tighter than a virgin prom queen, I get to take the F%CKING head off, which also includes pulling all my wiring, fuel lines, air conditioning compressor, intake, valve cover, distributor, spark plug wires, alternator, remote oil filter & lines, radiator hoses, inner fender, pulley & timing chain brace, and the motherf*(&(ING partridge in a damn pear tree.

AND YOU KNOW WHAT!!! Damn I'm diggin it. I love this kind of work, its the best way to learn, and the best excuse I can give my wife to clean and paint the engine.

Wish me luck guys, I'm a little ways in and I think I could use it. :D/

#2 Guest_Windchaser_*

Guest

Posted 08 October 2004 - 07:07 AM

PS. There was only a quarter of the exhaust manifold gasket remaining and part of it was bent inward toward the head...the jackass didn't even get it aligned right before he put the manifold and 6 of eight bolts in (one by the way was stripped). :angry:

#3 Broncoholics

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Posted 08 October 2004 - 07:12 AM

Why take the heads off? Did the bolts snap off flush with the head?
Try going thru the wheel well and drill the bolts out, then use an easy out from there. I'd think taking apart the wheel well would be quicker than all the stuff you have to do to get the heads off.
If you are already into it, have fun! Been there done that to many times... b-(

Wheel it like you stole it!

#4 Guest_Windchaser_*

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Posted 08 October 2004 - 01:03 PM

One of the bolts broke off inside the head while the other two are sticking out. And I cannot go in through the well because #1-with the 460 in there, there is not enough room to go at the sides #2 especially with one of the that is broken, hiding only two inches from the shock tower... DAMN b-(

#5 Guest_BigNasty_*

Guest

Posted 08 October 2004 - 01:33 PM

Simple things is absolutely correct

Heads off IS a lot easier for that and the best advice I can give to you is to invest in some 3/8" clothesline rope, it's great for tying things in place, like the a/c and power steering and headers (I tied to the header first, then stuck the rope out and secured it to the springs so they would stay out of the way for reinstalling the heads) and a universal in 1/2" drive, a 6 point socket to fit the head bolts (the lower rear bolts on both heads are a pita to impossible to remove and retorque without the uni and socket)
Oh yeah, many bandaids, gauze wrap and 2x2 gauze pads.

Another thing that comes into making the assembly easier is a set of taps, to clean ALL the threads out and repair slightly mangled threads. That will save you loads of cussing while reassembling everything

especially the exhaust bolt holes

and the added benefit of a better torqueing all around.

Another quick tip - while the heads are off, if needed, change the valve seals

They are cheap and you can get (if you don't already have one) a spring compressor cheap at pep boyz or advanced idiot and it might save ya from doing it in a few thousand miles anyway

Wet dry vacuums or even your indoor vac with the suction hose works great while scraping gasket material and sanding the deck surface. Same with towels in the lifter valley, just vacuum all the scrapings off the towel before removing it to help keep any debris from slipping through.

#6 Shadow_D

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Posted 08 October 2004 - 06:40 PM

Sense you have the heads, now would be a good time to do a port & polish with the heads, if you're looking for *some* added HP. You won't see a huge difference but you should see it at the pump. I always say "Every little bit helps".

BTW how are the valves? Valve job should be done with the P&P.

Also with the heads off now you can look at the cylinder walls and pistons for signs of wear / damaging burns.
This could be a blessing in disguise. If you have a piston that is about shot you can fix it now rather than finding out about it later when the engine leaves you on the side of the road in a cloud of smoke.

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#7 Guest_Windchaser_*

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 02:36 AM

Hey SHadow, what do you mean by Poart and Polish? And good idea on the pistons.

BigNasty- Already got the taps, PB Blaster (makes WD-40 look like water) and Anti-seize...I WILL NOT HAVE PROBLEMS WITH BOLTS AGAIN!

I do kinda look at this as a blessing in disguise. I am going to paint and clean my engine, look at the valves and cylinder walls and by the time I get done, have a lean mean, ass kickin machine once again. Not this engine that has lost all kinds of power. Thanks for the support guys. :)>-

PS-Bandaids and gauze and COBAN are a must have, hell I can't pop the hood without bleeding...can't wait to see how much blood I lose on this one...but then again, blood is my last name...no really, it is. :D/

#8 Guest_BigNasty_*

Guest

Posted 09 October 2004 - 06:57 AM

Porting and polishing... easy way to get better air flow in a set of heads.

Porting is cleaning up all the surfaces in the intake and exhaust runners, getting rid of stray cast marks, bumps etc as well as making the ports (holes) match from the intake to the head and the head to exhaust.

Polishing is done after porting usually, to treat the surfaces worked on to a nice looking swirl finish, to help the air/fuel mix go where it needs to go easier and with as little obstruction and puddling as possible.

For a 429 or 460, I recommend it get done by a shop that is well versed in doing the work on the 429/460 heads as an inexperienced hand can ruin the heads quickly as there are a few areas in those heads that are very sensetive to a port job.

#9 Shadow_D

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Posted 09 October 2004 - 07:00 PM

Thanks BigNasty for replying, I couldn't have said it any better, I probably would have confused him

I don't know how much HP the P&P will gain but with the air fuel mixing better it will save at the pump as the fuel is burning more efficiently.

90 Bronco Full Size
Police Package
351W
E4OD
31" Tires
Going through a complete restore

http://fullsizebronc...ail.php?id=1650

#10 Guest_Windchaser_*

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Posted 18 October 2004 - 12:28 PM

Anyone know how much a P&P costs, approximatly?

#11 Justshootme84

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Posted 18 October 2004 - 01:22 PM

Polishing the chambers is what takes a little time. I had a set of heads worked over completely, with new seats and 3-angle job for about $200 per head at a local machine shop a few years ago, but that was on a stroked 350. I would talk to the local racing guys, see where they get their work done. I would be wary of the local auto parts/machine shops like NAPA, unless they have a really good tech man

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#12 Guest_Windchaser_*

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Posted 19 October 2004 - 01:30 PM

Yeah I've had a lot of people tell me to go to a shop that has a guy that specializes in 460's because they can be a pita. Having some trouble finding someone though. :huh: