4 replies to this topic

[pickupman]

I recently put new wheel bearings, front axle u-joints and spindle bearings in my F-150 (auto hubs) and now the hubs don't seem to want to engage very well. When I shift into 4 wheel the front drive shaft and axles spin but I can hear a ticking in the hubs as though the hub is not locking in. When I put it all back together I made sure to grease the hub up really well, and I'm thinking that I might have lubed it up a little too much or that the wheel bearings might not have gotten seated completely. This was my first wheel bearing/hub removal and although I had guidance from someone who knew what he was doing I think I might have missed something or screwed something up. What do you think?

[Turbo Charged]

Lots of guys have trouble with auto hubs. They wear out over time. I think yours are just busted. Try getting some manual ones?

[nightmare713]

I recently put new wheel bearings, front axle u-joints and spindle bearings in my F-150 (auto hubs) and now the hubs don't seem to want to engage very well.  When I shift into 4 wheel the front drive shaft and axles spin but I can hear a ticking in the hubs as though the hub is not locking in.  When I put it all back together I made sure to grease the hub up really well, and I'm thinking that I might have lubed it up a little too much or that the wheel bearings might not have gotten seated completely.  This was my first wheel bearing/hub removal and although I had guidance from someone who knew what he was doing I think I might have missed something or screwed something up.  What do you think?

One thing that is stressed in my repair manual (1980 - 1996) is, and I will quote: "If the wheel bearing and lock washer were removed, adjust wheel bearing nut then install the splined spacer and C-washer on the axle shaft." There are several different front wheel bearing adjustments shown depending on the year of truck, model, and if it has the Dana 44-IFS/44-IFS-HD front axle or not. Torques are different, for seating the wheel bearing, depending on the above.

One thing you mention is greasing the hub up really well. When you get down to the installation of the Automatic Locking hubs, after making sure the wheel bearing nut has been adjusted and the splined spacer and C-washer are on the axle shaft, here are the rest of the steps shown in my repair manual:

Remove any excessive grease from the hub lock and splines.

Start the hub lock assembly into the hub, making sure the large tangs are lined up with the lock washer and that the outside-diameter and inside-diameter splines are in line with the hub and axle shaft splines.

Install the retainer ring by closing the ends with needle-nose pliers and at the same time push the hub lock assembly into the hub.

Be sure to apply a light coat of high-temperature wheel bearing grease to the splines of the axle shaft and to the components of the locking hub.

The exposed view for the Automatic hub lock (1994 and earlier) shows the remained of the parts going in as follows: Spring Retainer, Bearing, Bearing Inner Race, Bearing Race Spring, Seal Ring, and Cap assembly.

The torque on the bolts for the cap assembly should be from 40 to 50 inch-pounds.

I hope this helps. Good luck. If you can give me a little more information on the type of front axle and year, I can give you the wheel bearing adjustments.

[plowboy]

One thing that is stressed in my repair manual (1980 - 1996) is, and I will quote: "If the wheel bearing and lock washer were removed, adjust wheel bearing nut then install the splined spacer and C-washer on the axle shaft." There are several different front wheel bearing adjustments shown depending on the year of truck, model, and if it has the Dana 44-IFS/44-IFS-HD front axle or not. Torques are different, for seating the wheel bearing, depending on the above.

One thing you mention is greasing the hub up really well. When you get down to the installation of the Automatic Locking hubs, after making sure the wheel bearing nut has been adjusted and the splined spacer and C-washer are on the axle shaft, here are the rest of the steps shown in my repair manual:

Remove any excessive grease from the hub lock and splines.

Start the hub lock assembly into the hub, making sure the large tangs are lined up with the lock washer and that the outside-diameter and inside-diameter splines are in line with the hub and axle shaft splines.

Install the retainer ring by closing the ends with needle-nose pliers and at the same time push the hub lock assembly into the hub.

Be sure to apply a light coat of high-temperature wheel bearing grease to the splines of the axle shaft and to the components of the locking hub.

The exposed view for the Automatic hub lock (1994 and earlier) shows the remained of the parts going in as follows: Spring Retainer, Bearing, Bearing Inner Race, Bearing Race Spring, Seal Ring, and Cap assembly.

The torque on the bolts for the cap assembly should be from 40 to 50 inch-pounds.

I hope this helps. Good luck. If you can give me a little more information on the type of front axle and year, I can give you the wheel bearing adjustments.

Switch to Manual hubs no muss no fuss!

[One ton Avenger]

Try a Warn lock-out set up or the original Ford Splicer set up for better reliability, they might be a pain when you get stuck and have to get out and lock the in, but atleast you know there gonna work and not leave you stranded. The auto hubs are only good if you don't use them.