
Bad gas milage
#1
Posted 12 December 2006 - 05:32 PM
#2
Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:59 AM
if its a 4x4 this is absolutely normal, if its a 2wd then you should be getting around 15 i would guess, also my estimate on power output, 250 at the wheelsI have a 1993 F-150 Flareside that gets horrible gas mileage. I have put shorty headers on, K&N intake, flowmaster, and an MSD ignition coil. I didn't think that these add ons would effect my mileage this much. I hardly ever reve it over 2500 and drive it fairly respectfully. I am currently getting 10 mpg. I have the suspision that something might wrong either in the motor or somewhare else. Can anyone give me some clues as to what might be arong with my truck or is the price i have to pay for power. Also can anyone give me a horsepower estimate for a 5.0 with these Add ons? Thanks.
#3
Posted 20 February 2009 - 04:12 PM
I have a 1993 F-150 Flareside that gets horrible gas mileage. I have put shorty headers on, K&N intake, flowmaster, and an MSD ignition coil. I didn't think that these add ons would effect my mileage this much. I hardly ever reve it over 2500 and drive it fairly respectfully. I am currently getting 10 mpg. I have the suspision that something might wrong either in the motor or somewhare else. Can anyone give me some clues as to what might be arong with my truck or is the price i have to pay for power. Also can anyone give me a horsepower estimate for a 5.0 with these Add ons? Thanks.
have you check all the vacuum hoses and try to put E3 spark plugs in and go with a plug cable 9m see if that helps I was getting 12 out of my 78 400m with just plug upgrade.
#4
Posted 09 May 2009 - 02:57 PM
1. Spark Plugs
2. Spark Plug Wires
3. Vacuum Leaks
4. PCV Valve
5. Dirty Fuel Injectors
6. Dirty Fuel Filter
7. Dirty Air Filter
8. Tire Pressure
9. Transmission Slippage
10. Bad O2 Sensor
11. Bad MAP Sensor
12. Clogged EGR Valve
13. Bad EGR Valve
14. Clogged EGR System (Including Air Valves and Catalytic Converters)
15. Bad TPS Sensor
16. Bad Speed Sensor
17. Dragging Brakes
Your 5.0 ideally would get around 13 to 16 MPG. Factory the 5.0 made about 180 HP or so. It is most likely Speed Density. I would guess around 230 - 250 HP. Depending on the age of the engine and condition of the fuel system.
My 5.8L makes around 300HP but it also has 20k miles on a new engine bored .030 over with MSD 6 Ignition, Blaster Coil, Super Conductor 9mm Wires, Pro-Billet Dist., shorty headers, Flowmaster Super 40 Series Muffler, Edelbrock Performer EFI Manifold, K&N Air Intake, BBK Throttle Body and E3 Plugs.
The biggest problem you will have with performance is your engine is Speed Density. If you could find a Mustang 5.0 that is mass-airflow GET IT! You can swap the engine electronics (computer, MAS sensor, intake manifold) and make alot more power with better economy and quicker throttle response.
As for your poor mileage. Start with this list and start eliminating items. Every small item can affect your performance. Add all these small items up and you can have a reduction of 3 to 4 MPG.
Edited by Duke, 09 May 2009 - 02:58 PM.
#5
Posted 09 May 2009 - 05:28 PM
Pull codes . How long it been since u cleaned all egr,sensor ,throttle body?
A bad o2 will make MPG go bad quick (your shorty headers have bung for it right? )
To much flow the 302 don't like I went through it myself
Go with Motorcraft copper plugs 9mm wires
What size tires ? what gears ?
3:55 r norm for 31's (12-15MPG ) and 13-17 MPG with 235 75 15 tires
Big tire and high gears will effect MPG
If bigger tires did you reprogram the POsom (speedo) to the correct setting for tire size?
You may also have rear brake hanging up check all brakes jack truckup and spin by hand .
Front bearings may be bad as well as brake issues there.
I averaged 13-14 MPG on all the 302 e40d 3:55 rears 4x4 ex cab trucks I had (about 5 of that combo) andI live in hilly area.
auto hubs have been known to not disengage causing MPG also
Good luck post up often
Edited by lostin90s, 09 May 2009 - 05:45 PM.
#6
Posted 27 August 2009 - 06:08 PM
its a device I manufacture that improves air flow near the tailgate, that doesn't weigh more than 10lbs, and has been tested and proven to increase fuel mileage by as much as 5 mpg.
this product can also be easily removed for full use of your truck bed. by getting better mileage with your tailgate on, it also prevents undue stress and cracking in older trucks.
I run this product on all of my families trucks, and company trucks.
per truck it saves $400 to $600 per year.
if you would like to know more please email me at [email protected]
I have photos and test results available
#7
Posted 29 August 2009 - 04:28 AM
Why not post these pics and test results for all of us? just a thoughtI know of a product that is more effective than a truck bed cover, or a cap.
its a device I manufacture that improves air flow near the tailgate, that doesn't weigh more than 10lbs, and has been tested and proven to increase fuel mileage by as much as 5 mpg.
this product can also be easily removed for full use of your truck bed. by getting better mileage with your tailgate on, it also prevents undue stress and cracking in older trucks.
I run this product on all of my families trucks, and company trucks.
per truck it saves $400 to $600 per year.
if you would like to know more please email me at [email protected]
I have photos and test results available
#8
Posted 29 August 2009 - 05:10 AM
I can remember on one of the test trucks, which was a 2008 F150 4x4 ext cab with 4.6 v8 its rated at roughly 17 highway, with no other addition except the device called the "Areo Wing" The mileage was averaged at 25 mpg.
a 2006 gmc Canyon 4x4 crew cab with the 5cyl rated at 22 highway, averaged almost 30 on highway, and 25 in the city.
off the top of my head that's all I can remember without looking up the results, we've got 3 more trucks that are still being tested.
these are the pics of the ford that's sitting in the driveway. the wing is made of stainless steel, the next generation of mounting hardware is also going to be stainless. its designed with a quick detach pin system that takes less than 30 sec to take the wing off.
the wing and hardware is patented.



#9
Posted 30 August 2009 - 09:05 AM
For gas mileage you have many, many factors inlcuding...
1. Spark Plugs
2. Spark Plug Wires
3. Vacuum Leaks
4. PCV Valve
5. Dirty Fuel Injectors
6. Dirty Fuel Filter
7. Dirty Air Filter
8. Tire Pressure
9. Transmission Slippage
10. Bad O2 Sensor
11. Bad MAP Sensor
12. Clogged EGR Valve
13. Bad EGR Valve
14. Clogged EGR System (Including Air Valves and Catalytic Converters)
15. Bad TPS Sensor
16. Bad Speed Sensor
17. Dragging Brakes
Your 5.0 ideally would get around 13 to 16 MPG. Factory the 5.0 made about 180 HP or so. It is most likely Speed Density. I would guess around 230 - 250 HP. Depending on the age of the engine and condition of the fuel system.
My 5.8L makes around 300HP but it also has 20k miles on a new engine bored .030 over with MSD 6 Ignition, Blaster Coil, Super Conductor 9mm Wires, Pro-Billet Dist., shorty headers, Flowmaster Super 40 Series Muffler, Edelbrock Performer EFI Manifold, K&N Air Intake, BBK Throttle Body and E3 Plugs.
The biggest problem you will have with performance is your engine is Speed Density. If you could find a Mustang 5.0 that is mass-airflow GET IT! You can swap the engine electronics (computer, MAS sensor, intake manifold) and make alot more power with better economy and quicker throttle response.
As for your poor mileage. Start with this list and start eliminating items. Every small item can affect your performance. Add all these small items up and you can have a reduction of 3 to 4 MPG.
My truck is an 1989 f150 5.0. my friend has 1990 5.0 GT that was hit from behind but the motor is still good. what all do i need to take out to swap in my truck?
#10
Posted 30 August 2009 - 11:21 AM
the EEC for difference in programming is between the two motors, it will use the eec iV like your truck does now.
what is wrong with your motor thats in it now?
"The biggest problem you will have with performance is your engine is Speed Density. If you could find a Mustang 5.0 that is mass-airflow GET IT! You can swap the engine electronics (computer, MAS sensor, intake manifold) and make alot more power with better economy and quicker throttle response."
you don't need the whole motor if yours is still healthy. just the parts listed above. that will save alot of time.
the only difference between the two motors are the parts listed above.
#11
Posted 30 August 2009 - 04:30 PM
the motor obviously,
the EEC for difference in programming is between the two motors, it will use the eec iV like your truck does now.
what is wrong with your motor thats in it now?
"The biggest problem you will have with performance is your engine is Speed Density. If you could find a Mustang 5.0 that is mass-airflow GET IT! You can swap the engine electronics (computer, MAS sensor, intake manifold) and make alot more power with better economy and quicker throttle response."
you don't need the whole motor if yours is still healthy. just the parts listed above. that will save alot of time.
the only difference between the two motors are the parts listed above.
so all i need is all the engine electronics the computer, MAS sensor,and intake manifold an it will bolt right up an i will have better economy and quicker throttle response. sorry for all the questions i'am not use to EFI all of my other stuff is carbed. An i don't want to mess up my motor because it only has 57,000 original miles and runs like a dream.
#12
Posted 30 August 2009 - 04:44 PM
other than those parts, the two motors are exactly the same. just make sure to replace any gaskets on the intake manifold and torque the bolts properly to ensure a good seal. other than that it should be an easy job.
#13
Posted 30 August 2009 - 04:51 PM
I don't think you need the whole harness but I could be wrong i'm not a mustang guy. start off with just the intake and throttle body parts, as well as swapping the computer. if it turns out that additional wiring for the MAS is required then your can start into the harness.
other than those parts, the two motors are exactly the same. just make sure to replace any gaskets on the intake manifold and torque the bolts properly to ensure a good seal. other than that it should be an easy job.
thanks i will post in a few days to tell you how it went. also cud you post a pic of your 89 f150 on 33's because i want to try 33's but don't think they will fit.
#14
Posted 30 August 2009 - 05:01 PM
its on 33x12.5x15 general grabber m/s tires with the 15x7.5 ford aluminum rims.
completely stock suspension.
after I got it put together and running I took it through the mud hole a couple of times.
I never hit the fenders and I didn't get any problems with those tires . at full turn the corner of the tread will rub on the radius arms but I got that even with 31's.

#16
Posted 30 August 2009 - 06:29 PM
what size are the tires you have on it now? 235/70R 15?
#18
Posted 30 August 2009 - 07:00 PM
i put the 235's back on my truck for the safety, I should be getting it back in a couple of days now, I'm gonna run em till they're bald and upgrade to 35's with a 6" lift. for the full kit the 2 extra inches only costs an extra $40
#19
Posted 30 August 2009 - 07:10 PM
you probably have almost the exact same setup as my truck, and what my bronco Had. I'd say if you have the money then go for it. 33's will fit like a glove, and look bad a$$. I ran those 33's on my bronco on the road for a couple of months without a lift. then the 4" suspension lift made it look even better.
i put the 235's back on my truck for the safety, I should be getting it back in a couple of days now, I'm gonna run em till they're bald and upgrade to 35's with a 6" lift. for the full kit the 2 extra inches only costs an extra $40
i will go with 33's i was thinkin super swamper LTB's you think they will fit.
Reply to this topic

1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users