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new rebuilt E4OD wont shift


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#1 TeamFord

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 02:27 AM

I have just replaced my tranny on my 1990 f150 5.8L. In the process I damaged the the manual shift lever sensor. I know that may be the problem but i am be no means experienced at this. When I put it in drive it goes but it seems like it is not shifting out of first the rpms just keep going up past 3000rpms. Beyond where it would normally shift. I am replacing that part anyway, but please let me know what else could be wrong. Everything is relaced including torque converter. The wiring harneses have not been replaced. I have done all the work myself with the occassional "help" from a friend who turns out knowing less than I do and I dont know jack. All this without the use of a transmission jack. Please help. Cuz of my lack of know how I have been out of work for a month. This truck is my life. I refuse to let any Ford hater out there (I'm surrounded by them) talk smack about my very reliable and and mean son of a bitch Truck!

#2 miesk5

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 05:23 AM

yo Team!

Good to see that you do a lot of DIY!

Posted Image
pic w/Alignment Marks (from a Mercury, but similar)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Some info for ya;
DTC 67 & DTC 634; "E4OD Nagging Neutral Nonsense & Pinpoint Test, Manual Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor. Some of the problems the MLPS can cause are wrong gear starts, TCC hunting, no 4th gear, engine stalling, high or erratic line pressure & a sudden neutral condition; The negative lead of the multimeter should be placed at the MLPS signal-return ground terminal at the MLPS...This sensor is responsible for more malfunctions than any other sensor in the sys- tem, and the kicker is that it seldom stores a code 67 or 634..." Source: by Pete L at transonline.com
also this; whcih is a concise check of Pete's testing
Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..."
Source: by SigEpBlue

Posted Image
Connector Pin-Out Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Connector Re-Pining; "...The new style Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor comes with a matching vehicle harness connector. The problem is that you have to remove the pins and their wires from the old vehicle harness connector. What ever you do don't pull all the pins out at the same time because you will never figure out were they go. Easiest thing to do is remove one pin at a time and re-install it into the new connector..." Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

Connector Re-Pining in a 90; "...Here is what I have on my 1990 after MLPS Upgrade to F5TP-7F293-AA...First, look at this diagram, specifically the lower connector, for reference... Then I have as follows...#1 - Blank, #2 - Light Blue/Yellow Stripe, #3 - Black/White Stripe, #4 - Blank, #5 - Red/Black Stripe, #6 - Violet/Orange Stripe, #7 - Black/Violet Stripe, #8 - White/Red Stripe; Be advised that Red might be Pink and Violet might be Purple, it is hard to see with a flashlight. And, these wires no longer match up to my Haynes MLPS Schematic
Source: by Seattle FSB

Water Intrusion of Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor TSB 95-2-12 for 89-94; Some vehicles may exhibit a shift concern and/or a harsh engagement concern due to water intrusion into the MLP/TR sensor and vehicle harness. There may also be a number of different DTC's along with those concerns Source: by Ford via miesk5 at cc

--
Try this
a Self Test by my pal, BroncoJoe19
do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first
& Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

96 Bronco, E4OD, Man Xfer Case & Hubs
 

in my archived BRONCO, Trucks & Vans Web site; http://web.archive.o...s.com/index.php;
select a LINK, Right Click and and Hit Properties;

copy the the second HTTP address

paste in a new browser to see the current page

 Thanks to All Who Serve


#3 TeamFord

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 06:21 AM

Thank you for the reply. Yes i am a diy guy very rarley do i send anything to the repair shop. Now i do appreciate your help i must admit that the info you provided might as well be in chinese. my mlps is visibly cracked and i will start by replacing it, but could you tell me with any certainty about any other possible problems that might cause the problem i am having? once again that very much. plus i dont own a volt meter.

#4 miesk5

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 04:53 AM

yw!
Glad you came back! Was about to give-up posting here since quite a few never come back after asking a Q.

You can do that Self Test I posted by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.co..._mode__threaded
Try and run the engine until engine is @ Normal Operating Temperature
All lights & accessories off.
do the KOEO = Key On Engine Off portion first
& Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) portion

Post any Codes found here.
Also, I tend to skip over the basic checks at times; such as fluid level; when at norm op temp; after running thru all gears & reverse, and fluid condition; no burnt toast or whitish (water) deposits on dip stick,,etc.
I have nothing more to add other than get an MLPS from a yard and try it in your truck; if you have a good guy yard owner; they may test one for you since some pull em and ship them to other yards or shops, The MLPS is vital as well as sensors such as the TPS..etc.
I have the most important sensors in my site @ http://www.broncolin...x.php?index=134

Will look for updates.
GL!

Edited by miesk5, 19 March 2010 - 11:17 AM.

96 Bronco, E4OD, Man Xfer Case & Hubs
 

in my archived BRONCO, Trucks & Vans Web site; http://web.archive.o...s.com/index.php;
select a LINK, Right Click and and Hit Properties;

copy the the second HTTP address

paste in a new browser to see the current page

 Thanks to All Who Serve




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