3 replies to this topic

[TeE]

Hi everyone, I've written a couple of times about an issue I'm having with my Truck engine. 1994 F150, 5.0L 4x4, AODE, powerdyne supercharger, BBK throttle body, MDS coil
I replaced my engine with a Ford factory built crate motor. I checked and repaired engine harness, new distributor which was working on old engine, new TPS, new ignition wires and yes checked routing about a 100 x's from experience, I know what happens when you get a cross fire. PCMIgnition module and IAC six months old and working in old engine. New Motorcraft O2 sensor. Fuel pressure 40 psi and holding, new FMU, fuel filter.
Long story, short. I was under the gun to finish install due to pending major back surgery. Finished night before surgery. Tried to start engine and here's what happening. Starts, barely runs low rough idle and zero acceleration or throttle response.
I just can't do what I was doing before my surgery, but I have no choice. I've doubled ck distributor placement by verifying TDC and ck rotor alignment. Ck TPS at connector w/ VOM getting correct voltage readings. I've tried pulling codes, but get only all ok 111 KOEO. Can't run diagnostics w KOER. I ck wiring harness at C101 back to TPS, distributor, coil, PCMIgnition module and MAF all ok.
Pulled computer and opened it, looks brand new, absolutely clean. Ck'd 60 pin connector back to TPS, distributor, PCM, Ign coil, MAF & O2 sensor. All ok. Ck grounds, ck with battery disconnected wiring to fuse box.

I put it all back together and same problem. I really don't think a Ford dealership can do any better.
I even bought a PCM tester and it tests ok, if I'm reading the instructions correctly, ( which is why the tester is no longer made, most oddly worded instructions).
I've ordered a new MAF sensor. But doubt that's the problem. If it fixes it, great, if not here are my ideas and I'm open to any advise, thoughts, tea leaf readings, etc....

My final thoughts are it can only be the following.
1. Distributor (which is new and was working perfectly in old engine)
2. TPS even though I'm getting correct voltages and it's new from Motorcraft
3. PCM can't verify 100% tester I'm using gave me correct results
4. Engine computer is bad
5. Wiring bad.

I'm burnt out, but this is my only means of transportation, I'm afraid if I have it towed to Ford, they'll pull some stunt or say something stupid and I'll go postal.

My last push would to be replace the PCM, than???
I'll take any advice, ideas, guess's, anything, I just really don't want to take it to a dealer or mechanic who thinks they can fix it and only waste my time, money and what's left of my nerves.

Thanks in advance!!!

Edited by TeE, 19 May 2013 - 08:30 PM.

[miesk5]

YO T,

I see you have done a lot of mods and also checked the usual suspects such as Pin 60 resistance, etc. as Ryan M describes in his No Codes article @
http://oldfuelinject.../index.php?p=44
You'll need to check/test the MLPS;

EEC IV PCM Connector Pin Depiction Pic by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

And Ryan's PCM Pin LEGEND

As of 1994, the Neutral Safety Switch or Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) is referred to as a Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) or Transmission Range (TR) Sensor

Test, Pin-Point in 92-96; from Ford EVTM; "...The negative lead of the multimeter should be placed at the MLPS signal-return ground terminal at the MLPS. Check the resistance of the MLPS: The resistance of the MLPS (pins 30 and 46).." read more
Source: by Ford via alldata & justanswer @ http://ww2.justanswe...1637_222222.pdf
BUT THIS IS FOR E4OD


I thAng, if you have a "chip" etc. remove it and try KOER again
And I see that you do have a lot of knowledge & experience so IGGIE anyything below;

The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.


Validate PCM Engr Number (w/PN)in Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI);
Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP.
On-Line for Free at Ford.
Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list."
Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker).
Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover.
Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by Ford @ http://www.motorcraftservice.com

Compare this info w/your PCM numbers
---

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.co..._mode__threaded

.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.



Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) & miesk5
Jermil wrote; "...I was able to get codes the old fashioned way by counting the flashes on dashboard, so I think that would eliminate any prospect of it being something in the wiring; ....As luck would have, it appears that changing out the old EEC relay did the trick. At first I didn't think it would. Instead of using wire from the self test connector to the battery, I plugged it directly into the connector on the tool and went through the KOEO code retreival process and lo and behold I got codes..I even got the KOER test to work as well..."
Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds, Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test; miesk5 Note; Steve83 advises; "...If the CEL is burned out, connect CEL © to a 12V test light, and the light's other terminal to a 12V source on the same vehicle..."

Source: by Jeremy M (Big '92, jermil01) at SuperMotors.net

Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests (solid tone only); E4OD transmission control switch wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse for 92-96 in TSB 92-22-5 Bronco & all Light Trucks http://content.chilt...7OEfxEjd2l6ZA==
===========

FORD 1994 PCED OBDI-A Table of Contents http://www.thediesel...ra/vra07068.htm
Many reference values to use @ http://www.thediesel...ide=vras7ar.htm


Instead of EEC-IV MONITOR tests (break out box), go to the EEC CONNECTOR pin instead

[TeE]

YO T,

I see you have done a lot of mods and also checked the usual suspects such as Pin 60 resistance, etc. as Ryan M describes in his No Codes article @
http://oldfuelinject.../index.php?p=44
You'll need to check/test the MLPS;

EEC IV PCM Connector Pin Depiction Pic by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

And Ryan's PCM Pin LEGEND

As of 1994, the Neutral Safety Switch or Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) is referred to as a Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) or Transmission Range (TR) Sensor

Test, Pin-Point in 92-96; from Ford EVTM; "...The negative lead of the multimeter should be placed at the MLPS signal-return ground terminal at the MLPS. Check the resistance of the MLPS: The resistance of the MLPS (pins 30 and 46).." read more
Source: by Ford via alldata & justanswer @ http://ww2.justanswe...1637_222222.pdf
BUT THIS IS FOR E4OD


I thAng, if you have a "chip" etc. remove it and try KOER again
And I see that you do have a lot of knowledge & experience so IGGIE anyything below;

The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.


Validate PCM Engr Number (w/PN)in Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI);
Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP.
On-Line for Free at Ford.
Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list."
Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker).
Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover.
Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by Ford @ http://www.motorcraftservice.com

Compare this info w/your PCM numbers
---

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.co..._mode__threaded

.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.



Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) & miesk5
Jermil wrote; "...I was able to get codes the old fashioned way by counting the flashes on dashboard, so I think that would eliminate any prospect of it being something in the wiring; ....As luck would have, it appears that changing out the old EEC relay did the trick. At first I didn't think it would. Instead of using wire from the self test connector to the battery, I plugged it directly into the connector on the tool and went through the KOEO code retreival process and lo and behold I got codes..I even got the KOER test to work as well..."
Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds, Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test; miesk5 Note; Steve83 advises; "...If the CEL is burned out, connect CEL © to a 12V test light, and the light's other terminal to a 12V source on the same vehicle..."

Source: by Jeremy M (Big '92, jermil01) at SuperMotors.net

Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests (solid tone only); E4OD transmission control switch wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse for 92-96 in TSB 92-22-5 Bronco & all Light Trucks http://content.chilt...7OEfxEjd2l6ZA==
===========

FORD 1994 PCED OBDI-A Table of Contents http://www.thediesel...ra/vra07068.htm
Many reference values to use @ http://www.thediesel...ide=vras7ar.htm


Instead of EEC-IV MONITOR tests (break out box), go to the EEC CONNECTOR pin instead

Sorry I was so slow to respond. I've order a new mlps switch. Along with a new and correct ignition module(Black CCD type), this should resolve a lot of the mystery issues I was having prior to replacing the engine. My own stubbornness and refusal to realize my old truck and I have been through a lot of years and miles together, I'm realizing how important all the sensors other than whats on the engine play in the role of drivability issues. Fingers crossed!!!
Thanks!!!

[Skitter302]

A big thing is making sure that all senors are functional and reading the proper values. I won't lie, it is very easy to over look them as a key componet to a smoothing running truck.