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#1 Ktomek06

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Posted 11 April 2004 - 06:40 AM

Im thinking about pressure washing under my bronco and then spraying some bed-liner on my undercarriage to rust proof it, I am thinking about doing it now because there is no rust under my body and I want to keep it that way. Has anyone done this? There is some that is not as thick as spray on bedliner and it is more like a paint texture Has anyone else done any of this?

#2 Justshootme84

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Posted 11 April 2004 - 05:26 PM

Hey Kyle, I tried the DupliColor Spray-on Bedliner in a spray can on some of my suspension parts like the sway bars, the spare tire rack, and the inside of the tailgate. It takes 2 to 3 coats to get any thickness, and it has rubbed off in a few spots. The stuff looks good when just applied, but it is just not as good as Linex or Herculiner. If you have no rust on your frame now, see if you can find out if it was ever "undercoated" either from the factory or at the dealership when new. If so, the undercoating will last about 20 years before it begins to flake off. Your bronco is new enough that it can still be done for a reasonable cost ( couple hundred bucks) and last you for years to come. Any Ford dealership can do it. In my case, I used a product called "Restore" from NAPA that I just brushed over the frame and axles and it looks great!!! Cheaper than P.O.R., too. My Bronco was undercoated when new, but most of it has since peeled off. It is 20 years old, after all!!!
1984 Bronco XLT, 351W H.O., C-6 AT, Ford 9", SkyJ 6" lift, 35" tires on MT Classic rims, S&W Racecars 10-pt cage kit, custom "shaker" assembly.
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435

#3 Ktomek06

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Posted 11 April 2004 - 06:16 PM

Thx Randy,
Ill talk to ford, I also need to see if they have a eddie bauer spare tire cover too, I'm going to check the salvage yards tomorrow also for it, Thanks again for the help! BTW your bronc is still one of my fav's!

#4 Guest_Gunner_*

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Posted 19 April 2004 - 03:23 AM

yeah justshootme i just used the duplicolor on my interior bed it looks great but i wouldnt use it on the outside. i just wanted to put it on the inside in case i get caught in the rain with my top off so i dont rust through again. that and it is also a sound dampner so when i finally get around to fiberglassing my subs into it it helps hold the sound and reduce vibration. i have been looking for POR but if you say that NAPA stuff works good i will have to try it on the outside.

#5 Justshootme84

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Posted 19 April 2004 - 02:07 PM

Yeah Gunner, I agree with you on just using the DC spray-on stuff on the inside. I think if you put several coats, it might hold up better. The quart bottle of "Restore" from NAPA was $11. After brushing it all over the axles and frame, I still have half a bottle left. THink I'll use the rest of it on my 98 Z-71 frame!!!
1984 Bronco XLT, 351W H.O., C-6 AT, Ford 9", SkyJ 6" lift, 35" tires on MT Classic rims, S&W Racecars 10-pt cage kit, custom "shaker" assembly.
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435

#6 Txquadhunter

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Posted 19 April 2004 - 02:41 PM

I'm getting ready to rip the seat out of my 86 F150 to clean up the floor board well with something? Then coat it with one of the liners, which of the cheap spray-in/brush-on liners would be the best? Then once I run across a truck in a yard with a good rubber mat i'll place over it. I've found good carpet for it, although i like the look of carpet, I hate trying to keep it clean with all the muddy feet it see's.

#7 Justshootme84

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Posted 19 April 2004 - 02:49 PM

A friend of mine in Houston just re-did the floor on her 88 Bronco with a product called "ZeroRust". Looks very durable, although it took a couple of days to cure. I like the Herculiner stuff the best, but a gallon can is like $99, might not need so much if you just treat the cab. The dudes at the local NAPA store turned me on to the "Restore" for the exterior, maybe check one near you for what they have for the floorpan with a mat or carpet going over it.
1984 Bronco XLT, 351W H.O., C-6 AT, Ford 9", SkyJ 6" lift, 35" tires on MT Classic rims, S&W Racecars 10-pt cage kit, custom "shaker" assembly.
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435

#8 Guest_Gunner_*

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Posted 20 April 2004 - 05:17 AM

my bronco is sitting in pieces right now because i am redoing the ENTIRE interior. i ripped out all the old moldy carpet and seen all the rust on the deck. after i tore everything out i took a random orbital sander and some 40 grit sandpaper and cleaned it all up and sprayed on the duplicolor underbody coating and sound eliminator in the back. now in the front where i have holes in the deck i am getting the prefabbed floor panels and welding them in then i am still spraying the underbody coating in there to just to help keep the sound that my subs put off in the truck. after that is all complete i am getting that napa stuff for the outside after i sand blast the rust off the frame and axles. it is a long resto process because i am working with basically nothing looking good right now. well the back looks good because i just finished that. now i have to do the front and then get some plastic fiberglass puddy to repare all the plastic damage on the inside. so much work so little money.

#9 Txquadhunter

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Posted 20 April 2004 - 10:18 AM

Thanks guy's, will look into it.

Gunner sound deading for my stereo won't help me much. I've got 2 10" Kicker Comp. Sub's in sealed boxes behind my seat. 650watt amp. (still under watted, until i get my leg. 1,000watt amp hooked up, so I can run the amp at lower watt's without putting a load on it.) when I turn it up, I can hear any piece loose on my truck. Plus I'm running true duals with 12" glasspacks you don't hear much over the motor anyways..lol but I plan on coating it across the back pantle almost to the back glass since it can't be seen due to my seat, sub boxes and amp mounted between the boxes. Mounted this way with my center consol down I have easy control over my amp's power and gain plus open to air for cooling instead of under the seat like most mount there Amp's.

#10 Guest_mansquirt86_*

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Posted 20 April 2004 - 11:46 AM

650 watts isnt all that bad. I wouldnt recomend going much over 1000 watts because then you will find alot of rattles you didnt know you had. Trust me on this, im running 3000+ watts through 3 10's and i cant seem tp put an end the the rattles.. although if you turn it up loud enough it kinda mutes out those stubborn rattles (makes your ears hurt though).

#11 Guest_83Bronco_*

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Posted 20 April 2004 - 02:00 PM

Gunner, i read that you have the same rust problems as i do on my bronco. I am considering different ways of dealing with it. Is it difficult to put in floorpans? did you get them off of the bronco graveyard? is it very costly to repair all that rust? (i have it on the rocker panel, and the doors as well.) ifyou can inform me at all id be thankful. If i cant deal with this problem inexpensively im going to have to sell my Bronco :(
~sarah

#12 Txquadhunter

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Posted 20 April 2004 - 02:12 PM

with me being under watt'd I get alot of disstorting when I crank it. When I use my friends 850watt Amp I get clear crisp sound. I got a deal on the 1,000watt amp i couldn't pass up. the guy stopped messing with stereo stuff and said I could have it if i got it out of his way. no problem there.

A friend of mine worked in a custom stereo shop, With his discount it cost me less then $400.00. up until he stopped working there he wanted me to sale everything I had for a few $100.00 less then what new would cost, even know it was only a few weeks old at the time. He wanted to do a full custom system in my truck. build custom boxes to put 2 hidden 12" kickers under the seat and 2 10" kickers behind the seat like I have now. That way to mess with peoples head thinking I've only got 2 10's. But I turned hm down due to the 2 10's I have know will leave you saying HUH what'd ya say?

Since people have heard my system it's turned them away on buying 12" or larger Sub's. The 10's if setup right give great Bass, takes up less space and cheaper.

#13 Guest_Gunner_*

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Posted 21 April 2004 - 03:17 AM

txquad i have everything you have like the exhaust dual flowmasters. but i have two twelve inch kicker comp VR,s. i am also going to dynamat it i just wanted a base coat to help and stop the rust from coming back. and sarah no it isnt hard at all just take out all the seats and snad the crap out of it. it just takes some elbow grease even with an electrical sander. as for the floor pans i went to a local shop but the ones on the graveyard are good. just get a knowledgeable welder to weld them in. it isnt hard but i dont recommend someone who cant weld put im in because you might just make a few more holes in the deck. i have already started the project but i will still take pictures of where i am because it is all still torn apart. as for my subs they are in a sealed box right now but i am going to fiberglass them into the side wall eventually.

#14 Guest_Gunner_*

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Posted 21 April 2004 - 03:21 AM

as for the twelves it is all about placement and running the right system with the right amp set at the right gain. and the vibration is why i am putting thread lock on all my screws and bolts so they wont work themselves loose. but now not only will i roll over a ricer with my 7 inches of lift (3" body 4" suspension) and 35 inch tires but i will blow them away with my sound alone. well once i am finished anyway.

#15 Justshootme84

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Posted 21 April 2004 - 07:15 PM

This is kinda off-topic, but since y'all are talking subs, take a look at Kicker Audio's '96 Bronco. IT will raise your hair up in the air!!! 32 subs b-(

Kicker Bronco

( I apologize for the poor photo, that's as close as I dared get and lots of folks were hovering around)
1984 Bronco XLT, 351W H.O., C-6 AT, Ford 9", SkyJ 6" lift, 35" tires on MT Classic rims, S&W Racecars 10-pt cage kit, custom "shaker" assembly.
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435

#16 Txquadhunter

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Posted 21 April 2004 - 07:32 PM

83bronco,

also if searching wrecking yards for good patch pantel's. You don't just have to look in bronco's. it you look from the door jamb to the firewall is the same as trucks. can be taken for 80-96 on F150's and 98 on F250 and F350's. also piece in the rear/bed of the bronco can be taken from van's. Just do as Gunner said on welding. It's easy to burn bigger holes then you started with. a good welder can do it with a stick welder with care, But best done with a wire welder. A good cutt off wheel or die grinder to cutt the pieces out. a torch is really a no no. If patches taken from a donner bronco/truck always cutt out more then needed because easier to take off then add on.

#17 bluesman17

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Posted 23 April 2004 - 09:42 PM

If youre dynamatting go with xtreme dynamat its way better and to add to justshootmes pictures of kickers bronco(aptly named the beast) http://www.teamgates.org/bronco.html

#18 Justshootme84

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Posted 24 April 2004 - 06:13 PM

Thanks for that link, bluesman17, I wasn't lying about it raising one's hair!!!
1984 Bronco XLT, 351W H.O., C-6 AT, Ford 9", SkyJ 6" lift, 35" tires on MT Classic rims, S&W Racecars 10-pt cage kit, custom "shaker" assembly.
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435

#19 Ktomek06

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Posted 24 April 2004 - 06:21 PM

:o Wow, what a bronc, they filled the back up to the roof w/ audio equip. geezzzz



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