19 replies to this topic

[Justshootme84]

Check the u-joints in the rear driveshaft, and for any loose bolts on the exhaust and heat shields.

[Justshootme84]

The double -cardan joint is like a constant-velocity (CV) joint in that it's 2 u-joints coupled together. About $200 for a driveline shop to fix it. Sounds like alot, but way cheaper than a new rearend!!!

[indoz]

Jsm84, isn't $200 a bit over the top to repair this? If it is the same universal joint that I have on my 82 F100, one can renew the four needle bearings in it $5/each?. and pump grease.

[Justshootme84]

The $200 includes the labor involved in removing & pressing the joint. It can be done, but the 2 joints I used when repairing mine were nearly $100. I've heard of shops charging as much as $350 for the repair. It's detailed in the Haynes manual.

Brenden84, I would say you can go for a little while, but don't put it off too long and hurt the rear axle. You don't want to break down on prom night out in the middle of the woods, do you???

[Justshootme84]

Jeep Liberty??? NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! J/K, my friend has one that I get to ride in on long trips, makes about 20 mpg and rides great.

The oil filler cap is on the front end of the driver's-side valve cover, same side as the dipstick. The hose to the air cleaner is just a vent for crankcase pressure. Valve cover gaskets are about the easiest repair I've ever done on my Bronco. Get those fixxed!!!

This is an old pic, prior to the shaker kit, but may give you an incentive. I got me some chrome valve covers, and the breather cap is where I put the oil in.

http://www.superford...ame=engine3.jpg

[Justshootme84]

Where do I begin? You can easily change valve cover gaskets, if you need help just e-mail me. You don't have to get new chrome covers, I did that because the old ones were rusted out.

Yes, just unscrew the yellow cap and pour the oil in the opening in the valve cover. I still use a funnel, but it's much easier than filling thru the dipstick.

I have converted from R-12 to R-134a on my AC system, but all of the components are stock and original. They look so shiny new due to cleaning with "Scrubbing Bubbles" bathroom cleaner.

The blue tubing is simply blue wire looms that I bought at a car&truck show. You cna order those in any color from J.C.Whitney, Summit. or directly from Taylor Co. You might also find thos at the local parts store.

FYI, that pic is 3 yrs old, so I have more stuff added on. Things like the brake fluid cover I just painted to match my paint job. You see all of the rust on the brake booster, wiper motor, hood hinges, etc. and I spray painted little items like that, too. I am an engine freak, so every thing I can refresh, I've restored, replaced or repainted. It's alot cheaper than new chrome parts!!!

[Txquadhunter]

The longer you run that joint bad it could cost you more $$ later. In the center on the 2 u-joints in the CV is a ball that slips into joint (cup) it'll wollow the joint out more. If you can catch it in time you can just change the u-joints and be done with it. But if gone to long and the ball/cup is wollowed out it'll cost the $200 or so to completely rebuild that joint.

I built a new driveshaft for my 79 Bronco to do away with the CV joint since it was my weak link playing off road. But if your Bronco is lifted it'll need the joint to keep a good shaft angel. Since I replaced it with a everyday u-joint setup, I haven't had a rear u-joint/shaft failure.

[Txquadhunter]

I highly doubt it, The ball is pressed on. Just the slop from the joints and the cup dry will eat that piece up.