8 replies to this topic

[Justshootme84]

Check this post for diagrams:

ignition circuit

Seabronc is the expert on electrical stuff

[Seabronc]

The ballast resister is not a resistor on the Diraspark system. It is a resistive wire that is burried in the wiring harness. I wouldn't expect that this is your problem.

From what I understand, you can't get it to start without jumpering to the battery. the ballast resistor is not in the circuit with the key in the start position. If my assumption is correct, (you don't get 12V at the coil when the key is in the start position) there are several things that could be wrong. With the key held in the start position ( red lead off starter solinoid so starter wont turn over) probe the white lead on the ignition module located on the wheel well. If no 12V there, check the circuit shown in the attached diagram which goes back from the white lead to the ignition switch and on to the battery. Any one of the connections could be bad as well as the switch mounted on the lower column could be bad or out of adjustment.

If no 12V at the white lead, jump back to the large yellow lead to the switch, it should be hot at all times. If you get 12V at the yellow lead, check the( red/light blue) lead comming off the starter switch with the key held in start. If no 12V there then the column switch is bad or out of adjustment.

If 12V there, continue on, do you have standard or automatic? If standard there should be a wire with a jumper in it dangling near the column (red/light blue wire). If automatic, you could jumper it out and see if it starts, if so the switch on the tansmission is porobably bad.

Good luck,

[Seabronc]

Last nights response wasn't too good. Sorry I was tired and the thought patterns wern't working well .

Let's try this again:

Does the starter turn over when you put the key switch in the start position? If so, then we know the circuit on the left of the diagram is good. Atleast to the start solinoid.

Do you have 12V at the coil + when the key switch is held in the start position?
(take the small red lead off the start solinoid to prevent the starter from turning over).

If the answer is No to both of the above, I would suspect the supply voltage to the ignition switch on the steering column or the switch itself. The supply voltage comes directly from the battery thru a fusable link, ( on the passenger side under the hood ), connected to a large yellow wire. If you don't have an amp meter it hooks directly to the left side of the solinoid. If you have an amp meter it is a little more complex and I'm including the diagram. The fusable links are all under the hood and on the passenger side. The two links on the right side of the diagram are burried in the wiring harness where it splits off the power for the blower motor on the wheel well.

If the answer to the first question is YES, and NO to the second, something is wrong in the lead from the ignition switch to the coil. Again the ignition switch could be bad or the circuit is open some place between the switch and the coil.

God luck,

[Seabronc]

I have ignored the voltage supply connections to the ignition module since you said it will start and run if you jumper from the battery to the coil +. 12V is supplied via the white lead during start and the red lead in run. Jumpering in effect backfeeds these. That is also why I don't think the ballast is bad since it has to pass thru it to backfeed the red lead on the ignition module.

You are correct, don't run long this way, because the ballast is bypassed.

The connectors C321 and C325 are the ones right by the ignition module.

Good luck,

[Seabronc]

The ballast is a resistive wire. S216 is a junction point under the dash, close to the switch. The wire colors are also indicated on the diagram. From the start switch contact you have two wires, Brown with pink stripe and Red with light green stripe. Juncrion S216 is where the ballast wire connects. From there to the coil the wire is Red with light green stripe.

If you have 12V at the coil when the key is held in start, then yes, it most likely is in the connection of the (resistance wire) ballast. However, I would expect to have spark and attempt to start when the engine is turning over and then when you let go of the key it is like you turned it to the off position.

You can pull the connectors apart and use an ohm meter to see if you get a reading from C321 to C325, ( The White with light blue hash mark on C321 to Red with light green stripe on C325). With the connectors apart, the only path between them is the ballast resistive wire. If you don't get any reading, you are hot on the trail. Probable filures I can see are, the Ballast wire connections on either end, C325 connection ( located in an area with a high possibility of corrosion, I'd almost put my money on this area ), broken wire in start path, connection to ignition switch.

Good luck,