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2001 F350 Ignition Switch Problem


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#1 Ron R

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Posted 22 September 2008 - 09:32 AM

OK, actually, it's not the switch, and I don't believe it is the tumbler that is the problem (I've taken both of these out, and they seem fine). A couple of days ago, on turning off the car, I noticed that the key/tumbler turned exceptionally easily as I shut the truck off. When I returned, the key/tumbler would almost spin freely as I would turn to the "run" position, and subsequently to the "start" position. I couldn't actually start the truck, because I didn't have enough "throw" to fully depress the "start" position of the ignition switch. I then noticed that the ignition switch would remain in the "run" position even when I removed the key. There was simply no connection between the ignition switch and tumbler, as least not enough to disengage the switch from the run position.

Subsequently, I've removed both the tumbler and the switch, and they both seem fine. I think the fault lies with the linkage. I can see a white plastic "slider" that moves with the turning key, and slides the pin on the ignition switch that changes it's positions. This "slider" or rod, or whatever, does move, but I'm not sure that it is following the key through it's full rotation. There certainly doesn't seem to be the normal sequence of resistance that should be there, and again, the switch itself seems OK.

Does anyone know where the problem lies? Are there springs missing, or is that "slider" broken. Anyone have a link to a parts diagram that might help?

Thanks in advance, Ron.

#2 wewire2

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Posted 17 November 2008 - 06:30 PM

OK, actually, it's not the switch, and I don't believe it is the tumbler that is the problem (I've taken both of these out, and they seem fine). A couple of days ago, on turning off the car, I noticed that the key/tumbler turned exceptionally easily as I shut the truck off. When I returned, the key/tumbler would almost spin freely as I would turn to the "run" position, and subsequently to the "start" position. I couldn't actually start the truck, because I didn't have enough "throw" to fully depress the "start" position of the ignition switch. I then noticed that the ignition switch would remain in the "run" position even when I removed the key. There was simply no connection between the ignition switch and tumbler, as least not enough to disengage the switch from the run position.

Subsequently, I've removed both the tumbler and the switch, and they both seem fine. I think the fault lies with the linkage. I can see a white plastic "slider" that moves with the turning key, and slides the pin on the ignition switch that changes it's positions. This "slider" or rod, or whatever, does move, but I'm not sure that it is following the key through it's full rotation. There certainly doesn't seem to be the normal sequence of resistance that should be there, and again, the switch itself seems OK.

Does anyone know where the problem lies? Are there springs missing, or is that "slider" broken. Anyone have a link to a parts diagram that might help?

Thanks in advance, Ron.


I'm having this exact same problem. Any ideas out there?

#3 Sharecropper

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Posted 15 March 2009 - 04:09 AM

I'm having this exact same problem. Any ideas out there?



#4 Sharecropper

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Posted 15 March 2009 - 04:20 AM

Have had this same problem on an 84, an 89, and a 93....(I have a few ford trucks)....If you remove the trim cover where the steering column goes under the dashboard, on top of the column you will see the rod or slider. It should move back and forth as you turn the key. The actual electrical switch is under the dash on top of the steering column. If the rod or slider doesn't move, it is either broken or come loose from the switch. I assume the little metal tab on the end of the ignition switch that turns the gear is not wrung off (had this happen). In any case, the key turns the switch which in turn moves a gear that make the rod slide back and forth. In a pinch, you can put needle-nose vise grips on the rod and start the truck by pushing the rod toward the front (after you remove the trim cover)....Some of the trim covers have one sheetmetal screw, and some have two. Hope this helps..........Sharecropper

#5 williamroy1168

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Posted 11 July 2017 - 01:29 PM

`I had same problem but after paying a locksmith 150 bucks to get my truck started to get it home I found out it s the actuator rod that is I your steer column it a plastic rod that when you turn you key it hook to the ignition switch and the tumbler your key turn piece cost about 10 to 15 bucks but you have to tack steering wheel off and most of the top shifter to get to it to replace take about 3 to 4 hour to do there videoed on line that show you how to do not less you under warrant take it to the dealer hope this helps

#6 miesk5

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 03:36 AM

Yo williamroy1168,

Welcome!

Unfortunately, there aren't many participants here, so coje over to our sister site @ http://broncozone.com

Say hello in the http://broncozone.co...-introductions/ section.

Al


96 Bronco, E4OD, Man Xfer Case & Hubs
See my Big Bronco & F Series Technical & Parts LINKS site. Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim! http://schwimserver5.com/?index=1128
Thanks to All Who Serve



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