Iam helping my son change his 89 BRONCO AOD TRANS TO AN 88 C6.
THE HARNESS IS DIFERENT AND WE HAVE NO TAKE OFF POWER. The the C6 came from a 351 windsor motor and his is a 5.0L. Do we need to change the torque converter? Also when setting the timing on the 5.0L the electrical connection on the distributer hits the thermostat housing when at 8.BTDC WHERE OUR BOOK CALLS FOR.Should the distributer electrical outlet be centered in the adjustment range when at the proper setting? :
Transmission Upgrade
Started by
Guest_coolpop_*
, Mar 21 2004 10:37 AM
3 replies to this topic
#2
Txquadhunter
-
- Moderators
-
- 241 posts
F-Series Maniac
- Location:N. Texas
Posted 21 March 2004 - 04:22 PM
the 302 and 351w uses the same converter in the C6 so you should be able to rule that out. Also the AOD isn't computer controlled so there shouldn't be any harness leaing to it. just your nutrel saftey, back up lights and dash 4x4 light all that should be hooked to the AOD, The C6 also uses these but not sure if the conector is diffirent or not.
The best placefor you to start is will the kickdown linkage on the C6 if not adjusted or hooked up right it can cause you to bog down by hanging in gears. even the weight of mud after offroading can do this.
Since the AOD uses a cable controled kick down. what did you use is it's place for the C6?
as for the Dizzy setting you can pull and restab the dizzy anyway to reach the degree your after. I have this problem on my 78 and 79 351m aand 400 due to the A/C bracket no allowing it to be moved.
The best placefor you to start is will the kickdown linkage on the C6 if not adjusted or hooked up right it can cause you to bog down by hanging in gears. even the weight of mud after offroading can do this.
Since the AOD uses a cable controled kick down. what did you use is it's place for the C6?
as for the Dizzy setting you can pull and restab the dizzy anyway to reach the degree your after. I have this problem on my 78 and 79 351m aand 400 due to the A/C bracket no allowing it to be moved.
#3
Guest_ron753_*
Guest_ron753_*
-
- Guest
Posted 09 May 2004 - 06:50 PM
look on the back of the transmission and see if there is a modulater it's usealy a gold color some of them screw in and some of them have retainers with a 1/2 in. bolt holding them in you have to have a vacum line from the intake down to the modulater, that controls the shift if you have put in the vacum line make sure it is takeing off in low range the best way to check is pull the shift lever down to low gear and see if it makes a differance if not clean or replace the govner located inside the extention housing at the back of the trans.
#4
Guest_Stephen Hawk_*
Guest_Stephen Hawk_*
-
- Guest
Posted 09 May 2004 - 10:04 PM
If you dont feel like restabing the distributor then retard it back about 20 degrees, move all the wires over one post (in the direction of advance), and adjust your timing from there. I had that problem a few weeks ago on a f150 with a 302 and this worked just fine. I always have trouble getting the oil pump shaft to start into the distributor when I have it stabbed at the right point so I gave this a try once and it works fine as long as you have a mag induction distributor ( it has a little 8 pointed star wheel that turns past a small coil under the rotor) and not a hals effect which has a circular disk with little notches cut into it.
Reply to this topic
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
