Rear Window Woes
#1
Posted 22 May 2004 - 01:14 PM
Let me add this in... If your window gets stuck down, and you have to remove the window to get to the motor. Get someone to hold the regulator arms down while you unbolt the motor. It took 18 stitches, and a week of pain killers to learn that lesson.
So I connected both motors to my mustang, both work fine. Someone told me that the dash switch could be bad, because this is where the motor gets it's ground from.....WRONG($175+$36 now). New lesson though... the passengers side motor of the Mustang('89) is identical to the Bronco rear.
The window is not binding, I have it in now ...I just push it up and down by hand, but would really like to have the power back.
I have checked all switches, even the continuity switch that won't let you roll the window up if the gate is open. The key switch passes power, but the motor still don't work.
I have noticed that almost every parts supplier for big Broncos carries a replacement wiring harness for the rear gate. Is there a problem with the old harness to where it supplies voltage, but not enough amperage to operate the motor? Is there a fusable link in the harness that could be weak, but not blown?
Any input would be appreciated, I am almost at my wits end on this one.
I stole this '89 EB Bronco for $800, 351HO EFI, 3 speed auto, Traction Lock rear(front diff is open..3WD), not even a hint of rust anywhere, Interior perfect, Power everything. The only thing I have done to date is a full tuneup, and replace the fuel pressure regulator. She runs great and has power to spare.
Sorry I can't send a pic...file too big. will try to fix.
351W HO EFI
3 Speed Auto
#3
Posted 22 May 2004 - 03:45 PM
Have you tried checking the connectors between your tailgate motor and the fuse? I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a corroded wire that pulled out when I tugged on it. It was in a connector under the left side of the rear bumper. Corroded wires and connectors are a common problem with the wether exposed components. Also get some dialectric grease and pull the connectors apart, clean them and add the grease to seal out moisture.
The best manual you can have for your truck is a Ford EVTM for the year and make of vehicle. I would suggest that you get ahold of a meter if you already don't have one and check bothe voltage at the motot and ground (find a good frame grounding spot).
Here is a list of the connectors from my EVTM (not the same year as yours). The one at the motor, then the Tail Gate Limit switch, then the tail gate key switch, C1907 (Behind LH rear light assembly)(I've seen these corroded and falling apart), C123 (LH side of frame at rear cross member)( the one that fell apart on me), C124 (Lower side left hand dash panel), Drivers Tail Gate window switch, C1960 (at fuse block), 25 A fuse (#14 in my truck).
I have also had the window key switch not work because I left the Driver Switch in the UP or Down position. However if neither works you have something bad in the path I described. Not sure if your connector #'s will be the same but the locations are the same, atleast near the tail gate which is most likely where you will find the problem.
Hope this helps,
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#5
Posted 22 May 2004 - 04:12 PM
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#6
Posted 23 May 2004 - 04:59 AM
#7
Posted 23 May 2004 - 09:24 AM
"I know you think you know what I said, but what you need to know is, I did'nt say what I meant"
#8 Guest_saleen49_*
Posted 01 June 2004 - 06:59 PM
95 Bronco about to be for sale, Chicago area,
#9
Posted 01 June 2004 - 07:07 PM
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435
#10 Guest_Bronce George_*
Posted 01 July 2004 - 04:29 PM
#11
Posted 01 July 2004 - 06:55 PM
Yeah Man ...It's fixed. I had some corroded connections in the rear quarter panel, that were allowing enough voltage to read, but not enough to operate the motor.
The truck runs great now, and was well maintained. Perfect interior, and not a tad of rust, but had sat for over a year, so I had to do a complete tune up, and work some bugs out. I bet the guy paid atleast $400 for the new tires he put on just to get it to sell. He thought it had no oil pressure, but the gauge was bad(45lbs@ idle, according to my Autometer gauge).
Not counting gas, I have less than $1100 invested. She is my daily driver, and pulls a loaded trailer all day, 6 days a week. I recently bought a wrecked '89 Mustang for an Mass Air Flow upgrade.
Check out this site, it may save you some money. I have done this to all my window motors, and they work great.
351W HO EFI
3 Speed Auto
#12
Posted 01 July 2004 - 07:56 PM
So you are Happy with the Bronco??? GREAT!!! IT's really the ultimate vehicle, IMHO, but you have to try going topless at least once!!!
1988 Bronco Custom, 302 EFI, C-6 AT, Ford 8.8". parting out
1986 Bronco Custom, 300I-6, NP435
#13
Posted 02 July 2004 - 12:43 PM
This is not my first Bronco though, I've had 3 others, a '76 half cap, '79, and an '85. Loved them all, and have always been diehard FORD. I am a Independant Lineman, and carry some really expensive equipment, the Bronco is a more secure vehicle, than a truck with a cap.
351W HO EFI
3 Speed Auto
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